problematic electrical issues with my G36

[deep in the bush]

Hey all,

I have a G36c that has a 7mm mechbox (modify high tourque gears...) anyhoo It (the mechbox) fires fine when I try it on it's own.

The wiring through the AEG runs clean and it has no major power loss from the mech box to the battery (9.6 4800mh)... in fact it fires fine hooked up...just not put back together.

Only when the whole darn thing is assembled does it not fire...

So I replaced the handle and the selector switch...

I now have the same darn problem. It will not fire once fully assembled. I am thinking the darn thing is trying to "gas light" me.

So I am wondering if the cable is getting pinched and grounded out (the wiring runs to the stock thru the back of the body. It is a tight fit but has worked for a long time. The new wire I ran over the winter seems to be ok.) or is the selector switch getting misaligned somehow?

The only other option I can think of is the wiring running up thru the back of the handle to the battery is getting cut out somehow.

I am wondering if anybody else has any thoughts? I will make new wire to run through ... any suggestions on something really thin and holds a charge well? It also has to be malible as it runs though the body along the inner wall out though the stock.

Those smart electrical folk please come forth with your wisdom and knowledge of the mysterious power of the AEG.

Thanks.

[ujiro]

Are there any cuts in the line anywhere? Like not where the wire is completely separated, but just where the insulation on the wire is cut/missing around the wire core.

[deep in the bush]

Originally Posted by ujiro

Are there any cuts in the line anywhere? Like not where the wire is completely separated, but just where the insulation on the wire is cut/missing around the wire core.

nope. I wish it was that. I am wondering if it best just to replace the wiring. perhaps there is a pinch I cannot see in it. I will triple check it though. better safe than sorry.

[ujiro]

Well, if you run it while the gearbox is not even closed, like just holding the motor outside of the gearbox, while its open, and then pulling the trigger/switch, does it run?

[mcguyver]

The little "fingers" on the switch that contact the selector can be problematic at times. With some guns, they make poor contact, and if even 1 of them doesn't make contact, the circuit is open and the gun won't run.

Putting the mechbox back into the body could add some pressure to the selector plate, and cause 1 finger to not make contact.

Those fingers are the electrical component of the safety system, so in safe mode neither should make contact. I had an issue a few years ago where there was some heat generated at this junction (upgraded mechbox = more motor current = heat at poor junction), and it melted the plastic a bit where the copper contact on the selector plate was pressed. The little bit of flash would push out the lower finger, and the gun would only run in semi, no full. A hobby knife cleaned it up nicely.

[SHÖCK]

This is a common issue with G36s. They will fire when it's just the gearbox but once you seat it into the grip and the upper reciever, it will stop firing. It's likely a small pinch somewhere in the grip area or above the trigger or in your wiring. The screw on the plate that puts the gun into safe mode latch (not sure what this is called) might also be too tight, causing the trigger to click. Another issue I encountered was that sometimes the trigger didn't move far back enough because once into the grip, the slot for it wasn't deep enough so I shaved some of the plastic at the back of the trigger slot. That allowed the trigger to move more fully and the contacts to make better connection.

[deep in the bush]

Thanks huge for the input. I have soemthing to do this weekend now
tear my G36's apart.

I hope your weekend goes well.

Miigwetch

[deep in the bush]

I am still having issues.

I think it it either the small fingers or the "pinch handle" issue. Does anyone know of a good g36 site I can access to see visuals?

I thank everyone for thier knowledge and help with this.

oh yeah ....have you ever tried to grind out some of the handle? If so how much have you found it can take? the pvc seems think but I am afraid of compromising the integrity of the plastic.

could it also be the fact the handle is getting long in the tooth? I had this since they first popped on the market. back in 04 or 03... I think it has seen about 500 games and justr started acting up last year?

if it is getting too worn do you suggest I replace the whole assembly?

again any input is apprciated.

this one is a tricky little pickle.

[SHÖCK]

If it worked before, there is no reason why the plastic would be giving out or pinching it more unless you have the wires in the wrong place when you are pushing it into the grip (and therefore pinching or shorting the wires). It's more likely that the wiring or switch assembly is wearing out from metal fatigue.

I ended up replacing the switch assembly (came with wiring too) and it cost like $25. I also grinded away the plastic behind the trigger so that it could move back further.

[deep in the bush]

Originally Posted by SNK

If it worked before, there is no reason why the plastic would be giving out or pinching it more unless you have the wires in the wrong place when you are pushing it into the grip (and therefore pinching or shorting the wires). It's more likely that the wiring or switch assembly is wearing out from metal fatigue.

I ended up replacing the switch assembly (came with wiring too) and it cost like $25. I also grinded away the plastic behind the trigger so that it could move back further.

trigger is fine. I have new switch assembly already installed. I am leaning to pinching.... such joy.

[Jon35]

Hey I am having the same problem with my friend’s sig. Since I own one myself and have taken my sig apart many times he asked me to fix his gun and I have never seen a problem like this before. So I am just wondering if the new switch assembly helped at all?

Thanks a lot,
Jon35.

[deep in the bush]

Originally Posted by Jon35

Hey I am having the same problem with my friend’s sig. Since I own one myself and have taken my sig apart many times he asked me to fix his gun and I have never seen a problem like this before. So I am just wondering if the new switch assembly helped at all?

Thanks a lot,
Jon35.

Yes it turned out to be a small amount of soot from a small ark in the harness. I replaced it and now it is back up.

[Jon35]

Alright thanks alot my friend is going to school and he wants to be cheap as possible and on the switch assembly the little fingers that touch the selector plate were making horible contact so i just folded up some black tape and stuck it under the fingers and now they make a connection and its back up and running... not something i like and am proud of but hey its what he wanted. But thanks alot for the reply!!

[deep in the bush]

The wiring and harness had blackened soot from some arching, it was replaced.

The piston was then getting mis-timed. I cut the second tooth out like in high speed gears. That seemd to do it. (I am not sure how long the piston will last, steel teeth)

The whole thing was cleaned, rewired, new piston and new anti-reversal latch (and sanded down). The tapet plate was remeasured and some taken off to fit.

Lets hope that is it.

The problem was two fold, a bad wire and the sorbo pad was throwing the timeing off by a few microns that caused the teeth to grab the second tooth not the first at times... throwing it all off at times... god I hate inntermittent issues. If you are going to break ..go big or stay home!!! (shatter the whole darn box so I can just rebuild from scratch)

Thanks for all the help folks.