I f^&*ed up! Barrel problem

tony123 · March 13th, 2008, 15:20

Ok so i got a 555mm barrel for my g-spec and i cut it for it would fit in my barrel/silencer. after i got the peice off i was left with a bunch of burs in and on the end of the barrel so i had the greatest idea ever to use a drill bit to clean it up *stupid stupid stupid* !!!!!!! So i now come to you guys with the problem. how would i polish these scratches inside the barrel up?

The barrel is a laylax 6.03 tb

Sorry those are the best pics i could get..

Thanks is advanced for any help.

Danke · March 13th, 2008, 15:23

Cut it again to remove the bad section and then use a small deburring tool to clean up the end.

Nova316 · March 13th, 2008, 15:29

When u cut u can also use a pipe cutter, it'll take a little longer but it leaves u with a relatively clean cut

Danke · March 13th, 2008, 16:02

I'm going to dissent on the pipe cutter. Everyone I've seen "moves" material instead of cutting it. You wind up with a wider wave of material end the end of the cut. Maybe not a big deal if you're running water through a pipe but compressing the ID means you could have a jam and widening the OD means it could bind on the outer costmetic sections.

Chop saw sort of tool is always best.

ancorp · March 13th, 2008, 16:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by Danke

I'm going to dissent on the pipe cutter. Everyone I've seen "moves" material instead of cutting it. You wind up with a wider wave of material end the end of the cut. Maybe not a big deal if you're running water through a pipe but compressing the ID means you could have a jam and widening the OD means it could bind on the outer costmetic sections.

Chop saw sort of tool is always best.

Wouldn't the pipe cutter be better in terms of keeping the barrel's original shape? Since it goes around and around, instead of a direct cut on its side. Used one to cut my krink barrel down, worked out just fine. Then a dremel to make the crown.

CDN_Stalker · March 13th, 2008, 16:11

I just use a hacksaw then clean up the end with a reloading brass deburring tool. I put the barrel in the drill, poor man's lathe, and deburr both the inside and outside, then use a ratail diamond file to smooth it.

So, I also say cut off an inch or so (whatever it bad) and start over again. Luckily since you are running a suppressor and can go with any length of inner barrel, you are gonna come out golden even with your fuck up.

Danke · March 13th, 2008, 16:13

Pipe cutters tend to compress and push material. Maybe if you put a form inside the barrel to prevent collapse (the material will take the path of least resistance) you might get away with it but with Dremels etc. being so common it's so much easier to chop it.

Qlong · March 13th, 2008, 16:23

chop saw +1

Renegade) · March 13th, 2008, 16:42

hacksaw +1 used before, works just fine, not the only method that will work as been mentioned.

CDN_Stalker · March 13th, 2008, 17:03

Using the hacksaw works quite well, even on stainless steel barrels. Will work even better if you have the HANDLE for the hacksaw and didn't just use the blade itself. Still haven't gotten around to buying one yet. Lol

Danke · March 13th, 2008, 17:21

Quote:

Originally Posted by CDN_Stalker

Using the hacksaw works quite well, even on stainless steel barrels. Will work even better if you have the HANDLE for the hacksaw and didn't just use the blade itself. Still haven't gotten around to buying one yet. Lol

Get the handle baked into a cake, that'll make it through.

Nothing wrong with a hacksaw, and it costs a lot less than a dremel (it lets you make mistakes more slowly too).

Syn · March 13th, 2008, 17:34

I thought the end should be beveled (edit:sorry I used the wrong word-flared) like this no?

http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/6039/dsc00412js0.jpg

Danke · March 13th, 2008, 17:37

Quote:

Originally Posted by Syn

I thought the end should be flared like this no?

http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/6039/dsc00412js0.jpg

Thats not flared it's beveled. I thing that's what the hoped for result of the drill bit was going to be.

For flared think blunderbuss, tuba, etc. except both ways from the squashed material.

The only way you'll pull of a bevel like that is a lathe, and I think you could pull off a nice job of cutting the barrel with one also.

Jayhad · March 13th, 2008, 17:38

Quote:

Originally Posted by Danke

I'm going to dissent on the pipe cutter. Everyone I've seen "moves" material instead of cutting it. You wind up with a wider wave of material end the end of the cut. Maybe not a big deal if you're running water through a pipe but compressing the ID means you could have a jam and widening the OD means it could bind on the outer costmetic sections.

Chop saw sort of tool is always best.

100% agree, I have both a chop saw and a pipe cutter and I used a pipe cutter last time (3 weeks ago), when I was done I had a 4mm hole at the end of my barrel and another 30 mins of filing to fix it, my chop saw would have cut it nice ONCE.

tony123 · March 13th, 2008, 17:40

Thanks guys i bought some very fine wet sand paper too so maybe il try that on the fucked piece. yeah the end of the barrel is spose to look like that but i dident want to try to do that with what i have. I do have a lathe at my disposal so maybe il take it to school on monday..

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March 13th, 2008, 15:20	#1
tony123 Trader rating Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Brandon MB	*I f^&ed up! Barrel problem** Ok so i got a 555mm barrel for my g-spec and i cut it for it would fit in my barrel/silencer. after i got the peice off i was left with a bunch of burs in and on the end of the barrel so i had the greatest idea ever to use a drill bit to clean it up stupid stupid stupid !!!!!!! So i now come to you guys with the problem. how would i polish these scratches inside the barrel up? The barrel is a laylax 6.03 tb Sorry those are the best pics i could get.. Thanks is advanced for any help.

March 13th, 2008, 16:11	#6
CDN_Stalker Official ASC Bladesmith Trader rating Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Ottawa, Ont.	I just use a hacksaw then clean up the end with a reloading brass deburring tool. I put the barrel in the drill, poor man's lathe, and deburr both the inside and outside, then use a ratail diamond file to smooth it. So, I also say cut off an inch or so (whatever it bad) and start over again. Luckily since you are running a suppressor and can go with any length of inner barrel, you are gonna come out golden even with your fuck up. __________________ STKR Knives http://www.facebook.com/#!/pages/STK...17036668380871

March 13th, 2008, 16:23	#8
Qlong Division Trader rating Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Scarborough, Ontario	chop saw +1 __________________ Weee!

March 13th, 2008, 15:23	#2
Danke Prancercise Guru Trader rating Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Danger Zone	Cut it again to remove the bad section and then use a small deburring tool to clean up the end.

March 13th, 2008, 15:29	#3
Nova316 Trader rating Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Calgary	When u cut u can also use a pipe cutter, it'll take a little longer but it leaves u with a relatively clean cut

March 13th, 2008, 16:02	#4
Danke Prancercise Guru Trader rating Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Danger Zone	I'm going to dissent on the pipe cutter. Everyone I've seen "moves" material instead of cutting it. You wind up with a wider wave of material end the end of the cut. Maybe not a big deal if you're running water through a pipe but compressing the ID means you could have a jam and widening the OD means it could bind on the outer costmetic sections. Chop saw sort of tool is always best.

March 13th, 2008, 16:13	#7
Danke Prancercise Guru Trader rating Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Danger Zone	Pipe cutters tend to compress and push material. Maybe if you put a form inside the barrel to prevent collapse (the material will take the path of least resistance) you might get away with it but with Dremels etc. being so common it's so much easier to chop it.

March 13th, 2008, 16:42	#9
Renegade) A Total Bastard Trader rating Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Tottenham, Ontario	hacksaw +1 used before, works just fine, not the only method that will work as been mentioned. __________________ W1-5

March 13th, 2008, 17:03	#10
CDN_Stalker Official ASC Bladesmith Trader rating Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Ottawa, Ont.	Using the hacksaw works quite well, even on stainless steel barrels. Will work even better if you have the HANDLE for the hacksaw and didn't just use the blade itself. Still haven't gotten around to buying one yet. Lol __________________ STKR Knives http://www.facebook.com/#!/pages/STK...17036668380871

March 13th, 2008, 17:34	#12
Syn Trader rating Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Toronto	I thought the end should be beveled (edit:sorry I used the wrong word-flared) like this no? http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/6039/dsc00412js0.jpg __________________ Last edited by Syn; March 13th, 2008 at 17:39..

March 13th, 2008, 17:40	#15
tony123 Trader rating Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Brandon MB	Thanks guys i bought some very fine wet sand paper too so maybe il try that on the fucked piece. yeah the end of the barrel is spose to look like that but i dident want to try to do that with what i have. I do have a lathe at my disposal so maybe il take it to school on monday..

I f^&*ed up! Barrel problem

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