M203 shells dont hold any gas

[LUTNIT]

searched and found nothing so here she is...

Just bought 2 King Arms 90 round M203 shells from A&A airsoft, got em, filled em (propane), loaded BB's in em (KSC 0.20's), fired em (G&P M203 RAS), great! After that I let them sit on my nightstand for about an hour empty, tried to fill em again and all the gas just automatically vents out the "barrels" that hold the BB's. There is a pop sound just before it starts so its as if it can hold a tiny little bit of pressure but then just pops the valve open. I've tried lubing the bottom button that opens em but it did nothing but give me a face full of silicone oil. I filled them the first time without any BB's in the barrels and it worked fine and am afraid to try it with BB's in it in case they all blow out at my hand as I fill it. Is there some hugely obvious thing I've missed (its not like these things come with instruction manuals, yes I do always read instruction manuals) or did I just get lemons?

[BloodSport]

sounds like your not setting the "release" (sorry cant think of proper name at the moment). Make sure the Orings are lubed, and that prior to filling that they are set properly and sealed.

[LUTNIT]

do I need to disassemble it to get access to the o-rings? I've read some horror stories about taking apart M203 shells but I have no idea whats up with my shells, the exact same thing is happening to both of em so this is one really weird coincidence if it is one. Other than making sure the release button on the bottom isnt jammed in is there anything else I can do?

[Daes]

Yeah, you have to reset the release button "trigger". Once shot, push the button all the way in until you hear a click, then it should spring back to the full position, ready to be filled. If it is sticky, like with mine, just whack it a bunch until the button pops back to the normal position.

I use a soft plastic head screwdriver to do this, screwdriver to push the button in till click, then a tap with the soft plastic to get the button to come back out from the click reset position.

Best of luck,
-Daes

[LUTNIT]

If its necessary to push the button after every use you think they would have told you that...

Finally came out, for some reason the button wouldn't come all the way back out (even after hammering it against my hand) but then it suddenly just did.

Thanks.

P.S. Are you supposed to keep a little gas in M203 shells to make sure the seals dont dry out like GBB mags?

[GraveTech]

Just a note, if you ever do need to disassemble the shells, do it in a plastic bag otherwise you will lose a number of springs and ball bearings.

[BloodSport]

Or get some of the newer Madbull versions instead of the MM not as many little bearings to loose.

Although you can typically buy them at Princess Auto if you need them.



And yea you do need to reseat it after every use, when I had mine I did not keep gas in them but just lubed the orings after each game day. There is also a loading tool you can buy for the MM versions made by KA I believe, helps quite a bit and holds the bearings in place. It is also used to push the bb's in once your gassed up and to push and reset it after discharge.

[mcguyver]

Originally Posted by LUTNIT

If its necessary to push the button after every use you think they would have told you that...

Finally came out, for some reason the button wouldn't come all the way back out (even after hammering it against my hand) but then it suddenly just did.

Thanks.

P.S. Are you supposed to keep a little gas in M203 shells to make sure the seals dont dry out like GBB mags?

I've owned shells from 4 manufacturers that need to be reset this way. They did tell you about it, but it's probably in the the Japanese (or other Asian) instructions.

If you can't reset it this way, try unscrewing the bottom anodized sleeve. But only undo it 1 full rotation. Then let the button drop. If you undo it any more than that, you'll be loosing the bearings (8 little ones) and then your shell is toast until you order replacements. When the button drops, tighten the sleeve back up. The sleeve is the piece that looks like the shell casing on the real round.

[LUTNIT]

Ah, thank you for that tip. There where actually no instructions at all, not even asian ones I found that kinda strange.

The shell is toast when the bearings fall out? What if I open it in a plastic bag like GraveTech said, can I put them back in or is there a problem with them once they fall out?

[mcguyver]

The shell is toast if you lose any bearings. If they fall out and you have them all, as well as the spring, then it can be reassembled.

It should be noted they are a son-of-a-bitch to reassemble if you've never done it before. I think I invented some new words the first time I did it.

[BloodSport]

Yup pain in the ass when they fall out, and you do need them all for it to function properly. But I've bought them at Princess Auto a few times in the past so at least they can be found locally.

The tool that I mentioned above has a ring that you put over the bearings when you start to dismantle it to hold them in place.

[gallantcorey]

+1 for the twisting of the base one turn. I used to own a KA shell and thats how I always reset the shell. I used it lots and I never needed to open it up.

[testtube]

I think Apoc has one of those reset tools Lutnit ask him to take a look at it.

[LUTNIT]

Yeah, one of em is toast, pressing the button on the bottom to reset em and close the valve does nothing, it doesnt click even when I hammer the button. Anyone have any ideas why this may be?

[BloodSport]

check the seal around the fill valve, if its shot then it wont hold.

If one of the local guys are not too familiar with them, I'm back there around Dec.1st for most of the month and could meet up and take a look for you.