WE M4 Wear / Trigger issues in Semi

TruckNorris · January 23rd, 2012, 21:11

Hi Everybody, this is my first post so bear with me. I am having some problems with a gun I just traded for off of AirsoftCanada. It is orignally a WE M4 running on propane. For your knowledge it is now in a MK18 mod 1 setup (or close to it).

First off right when i un-packaged the thing and fired it off on the second shot the bolt became stuck which was a real SOB to get loose, having to remove the buffer tube. I believe I solved this by threading the buffer tube in more, the problem being the bolt was catching on the hammer. Anyways it fires now and cycles.

PROBLEM 1:

There is a funny wear pattern which I think is from the hammer on the bolt, white plastic piece and the brass tube. It looks like from the wheel on the hammer but I was wondering if this is right?

http://airsoftcanada.com/attachment....1&d=1327366386

Here is the wear on the plastic piece, which also slides to where I have it marked in green, and based on everything I have read it isn't supposed to.

http://airsoftcanada.com/attachment....1&d=1327366386

PROBLEM 2:

Next is the hammer which looks like a piece of S$%*T. This is my first gas gun but I know this is way to much wear. I should note also that when I got the gun I fully cleaned and lubed it and yes there were metal shavings all over the place.

http://airsoftcanada.com/attachment....1&d=1327366386

http://airsoftcanada.com/attachment....1&d=1327366386

In SEMI the gun shoots in a burst but only one bb will shoot and as of right now I just noticed there is a bb stuck in the hopup also. So the fun begins with the GBBR lol. Also is it normal to not be able to SAFETY the gun unless the hammer is cocked?

Your help is greatly appreciated. I am an easy going guy but from an ad where the gun was posted as "great condition" is this the type of great condition I should expect in the classifieds?

MaybeStopCalling · January 23rd, 2012, 21:51

AR-15 rifles and their derivatives (M16, M4, C7, C8, and etc.) can only be put on SAFE when cocked.

Eeyore · January 23rd, 2012, 21:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by TruckNorris

Hi Everybody, this is my first post so bear with me. I am having some problems with a gun I just traded for off of AirsoftCanada. It is orignally a WE M4 running on propane. For your knowledge it is now in a MK18 mod 1 setup (or close to it).

First off right when i un-packaged the thing and fired it off on the second shot the bolt became stuck which was a real SOB to get loose, having to remove the buffer tube. I believe I solved this by threading the buffer tube in more, the problem being the bolt was catching on the hammer. Anyways it fires now and cycles.

PROBLEM 1:

There is a funny wear pattern which I think is from the hammer on the bolt, white plastic piece and the brass tube. It looks like from the wheel on the hammer but I was wondering if this is right?

http://airsoftcanada.com/attachment....1&d=1327366386

Here is the wear on the plastic piece, which also slides to where I have it marked in green, and based on everything I have read it isn't supposed to.

http://airsoftcanada.com/attachment....1&d=1327366386

PROBLEM 2:

Next is the hammer which looks like a piece of S$%*T. This is my first gas gun but I know this is way to much wear. I should note also that when I got the gun I fully cleaned and lubed it and yes there were metal shavings all over the place.

http://airsoftcanada.com/attachment....1&d=1327366386

http://airsoftcanada.com/attachment....1&d=1327366386

In SEMI the gun shoots in a burst but only one bb will shoot and as of right now I just noticed there is a bb stuck in the hopup also. So the fun begins with the GBBR lol. Also is it normal to not be able to SAFETY the gun unless the hammer is cocked?

Your help is greatly appreciated. I am an easy going guy but from an ad where the gun was posted as "great condition" is this the type of great condition I should expect in the classifieds?

If I may suggest the absolute best and easiest solution. Pay the 100$ and buy an open chamber kit for your gun. Included is a new inner barrel and hop up, as well as a new bolt. All those issues you are having you won't have t worry about again. And secondly the open chamber model performs better than the closed.

TruckNorris · January 23rd, 2012, 22:31

Green Synergy thanks for the education, it makes sense but I was just curious. Appreciate it.

Eeyore eventually I will probably go that route as it seems that's where WE is heading, but for now due to finances i'm stuck with the brass tube lol I can deal with a bit of wear and eventually replacing parts. What are your thoughts on the trigger mechanism and semi issue? If all goes to hell i'll buy the drop in steel trigger box probably, but again the money so I would like to fix it instead.

Ballcancer · January 23rd, 2012, 22:35

with the rubbing on the part of the brass tube.. it looks like it is either bent slightly, or the whole unit itself (inner barrel, hop up, and brass tube) is not seated quite right, I would take the whole thing apart and give everything a good look over, take it apart, clean it, reseat everything properly and then reasemble it, because that you got it used and in a totally different configuration then stock, this is quite possible. As for the rubbing on the black tube and the white spacer, that is normal, hell you should see my AWSS WE its worn to shit and still kicking. If you don't have too stay with the Closed bolt unit (unless the brass tube is bent then you have no choice).

MaybeStopCalling · January 23rd, 2012, 22:40

If you upgrade the trigger, get the CWI parts instead of the Ra-Tech parts. If you don't firmly pull the trigger with Ra-Tech parts, sometimes they have a nasty habit of firing on auto as long as you're in that sweet spot- It's due to the design of the mating surfaces on the Ra-Tech Hammer and Disconnector.

TruckNorris · January 23rd, 2012, 23:08

Haven't even had the gun 8 hours and it has been completely disassembled lol I tightened the "nut" which holds the outerbarrel, inner barrel and rail system snug, and then some, so now there is zero barrel wobble. Hopefully everything seats better as there was a bit of wobble before. Glad to know that the gun can take some wear and tear.

I'll look into CWI parts for the trigger assembly. I have read the Ra-Tech ones might have to be modded slightly to work 100%, nice to know there is another option besides stock.

Anyone have an thoughts as to why there is a burst of a few rounds on SEMI?

Ballcancer · January 23rd, 2012, 23:18

Could be due to a number of issues inside your trigger mech, if you could rip it apart and take a few pics of the tigger components then we could better diagnose the problem. Also now that you have the gun all tightened up does the action feel smoother? And yes the AWSS version can take hell and back and still work - basically the AK of the GBBR world.

TruckNorris · January 23rd, 2012, 23:21

I should note the rail system is a Madbull DD 9.5” RAS II, explaining the excessive barrel wobble with it free floating.

TruckNorris · January 23rd, 2012, 23:26

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ballcancer

And yes the AWSS version can take hell and back and still work - basically the AK of the GBBR world.

Awesome

I won't be able to test it all out again tonight. I'll go over everything tomorrow, try it out in semi, full auto, see if I can get more details and maybe some more pictures if things still aren't working right.

Ballcancer · January 23rd, 2012, 23:50

I could see issues being caused if there is barrel wobble, basically if the barrel is wobbling then so is everything else thats attached to it, which would cause in turn excessive wear and sugglishness.

Only shitty part of the AWSS version is it has some pretty bad cool down - unless you run CO2 mags Propane will be slugish below +10 - hate to break it to you lol

TruckNorris · January 24th, 2012, 00:11

C02 mags are on the wish list lol. For now ill be borrowing an aeg, just couldn't resist having a gbbr as my primary. Even with these problems it is so much better than my old aeg. Hopefully tightening the barrel helps things and there was no major damage already done.

turok_t · January 24th, 2012, 00:45

PM sent

TruckNorris · January 31st, 2012, 14:18

Not to forget my post. The gun is shooting perfectly on auto so there are not problems other than some worn pieces in the trigger mechanism which i'm looking into replacing (or upgrading). I appreciate all the responses and help.

Kos-Mos · January 31st, 2012, 14:43

If your gun still fires bursts in semi, it's your hammer and disconnector that are done for.

If the damage is not really bad, you MIGHT be able to fix it by filing the notch back in shape... but from your pictures, I would just drop a new trigger unit and replace the brass tube and be done with it.

Home	Forums	Register	Gallery	FAQ	Calendar
Retailers	Community	News/Info	International Retailers	IRC	Today's Posts

British Columbia	Alberta
BCAC	EAR
Op-For	JOC
Northern Arms Airsoft	Skunkworx Airsoft
Airsoft Kelowna	RAAT
Prince George Airsoft	Manitoba
Saskatchewan	MAA
SK Airsoft	Ontario
PDW	Airsoft Ottawa
South Sask Mercs	Snow Dragons
Quebec	1st Ranger Platoon
PQAC	Wolfpack Tactical
1st Pathfinders Regiment	TTAC3
Quebec Airsoft
MTX Airsoft	Atlantic
FAQc	Atlantic Airsoft

January 23rd, 2012, 22:35	#5
Ballcancer Trader rating Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Gravenhurst, ON	with the rubbing on the part of the brass tube.. it looks like it is either bent slightly, or the whole unit itself (inner barrel, hop up, and brass tube) is not seated quite right, I would take the whole thing apart and give everything a good look over, take it apart, clean it, reseat everything properly and then reasemble it, because that you got it used and in a totally different configuration then stock, this is quite possible. As for the rubbing on the black tube and the white spacer, that is normal, hell you should see my AWSS WE its worn to shit and still kicking. If you don't have too stay with the Closed bolt unit (unless the brass tube is bent then you have no choice). __________________

January 23rd, 2012, 23:18	#8
Ballcancer Trader rating Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Gravenhurst, ON	Could be due to a number of issues inside your trigger mech, if you could rip it apart and take a few pics of the tigger components then we could better diagnose the problem. Also now that you have the gun all tightened up does the action feel smoother? And yes the AWSS version can take hell and back and still work - basically the AK of the GBBR world. __________________

January 23rd, 2012, 23:50	#11
Ballcancer Trader rating Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Gravenhurst, ON	I could see issues being caused if there is barrel wobble, basically if the barrel is wobbling then so is everything else thats attached to it, which would cause in turn excessive wear and sugglishness. Only shitty part of the AWSS version is it has some pretty bad cool down - unless you run CO2 mags Propane will be slugish below +10 - hate to break it to you lol __________________

January 23rd, 2012, 21:51	#2
MaybeStopCalling Green Synergy Trader rating Join Date: May 2009	AR-15 rifles and their derivatives (M16, M4, C7, C8, and etc.) can only be put on SAFE when cocked.

January 23rd, 2012, 22:31	#4
TruckNorris Trader rating Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Peterborough, Ontario	Green Synergy thanks for the education, it makes sense but I was just curious. Appreciate it. Eeyore eventually I will probably go that route as it seems that's where WE is heading, but for now due to finances i'm stuck with the brass tube lol I can deal with a bit of wear and eventually replacing parts. What are your thoughts on the trigger mechanism and semi issue? If all goes to hell i'll buy the drop in steel trigger box probably, but again the money so I would like to fix it instead.

January 23rd, 2012, 22:40	#6
MaybeStopCalling Green Synergy Trader rating Join Date: May 2009	If you upgrade the trigger, get the CWI parts instead of the Ra-Tech parts. If you don't firmly pull the trigger with Ra-Tech parts, sometimes they have a nasty habit of firing on auto as long as you're in that sweet spot- It's due to the design of the mating surfaces on the Ra-Tech Hammer and Disconnector.

January 23rd, 2012, 23:08	#7
TruckNorris Trader rating Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Peterborough, Ontario	Haven't even had the gun 8 hours and it has been completely disassembled lol I tightened the "nut" which holds the outerbarrel, inner barrel and rail system snug, and then some, so now there is zero barrel wobble. Hopefully everything seats better as there was a bit of wobble before. Glad to know that the gun can take some wear and tear. I'll look into CWI parts for the trigger assembly. I have read the Ra-Tech ones might have to be modded slightly to work 100%, nice to know there is another option besides stock. Anyone have an thoughts as to why there is a burst of a few rounds on SEMI?

January 23rd, 2012, 23:21	#9
TruckNorris Trader rating Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Peterborough, Ontario	I should note the rail system is a Madbull DD 9.5” RAS II, explaining the excessive barrel wobble with it free floating.

January 24th, 2012, 00:11	#12
TruckNorris Trader rating Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Peterborough, Ontario	C02 mags are on the wish list lol. For now ill be borrowing an aeg, just couldn't resist having a gbbr as my primary. Even with these problems it is so much better than my old aeg. Hopefully tightening the barrel helps things and there was no major damage already done.

January 24th, 2012, 00:45	#13
turok_t Trader rating Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada	PM sent

January 31st, 2012, 14:18	#14
TruckNorris Trader rating Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Peterborough, Ontario	Not to forget my post. The gun is shooting perfectly on auto so there are not problems other than some worn pieces in the trigger mechanism which i'm looking into replacing (or upgrading). I appreciate all the responses and help.

WE M4 Wear / Trigger issues in Semi

Doctor's Corner