V2 Trigger disassembly causing seizing

[Rabbit]

At that breaking point! ready to smash something or chuck a plate! we've all been there

Recently took apart a standard g&g mechbox to put in some aftermarket upgrades.

The trigger assembly ended up popping out which is an area i haven't had to mess with. There is a spring that kinda wraps around the actual trigger and rests on the mechbox itself.

The mechbox is continually seizing now after firing a few rounds and the trigger keeps popping off as soon as i open the mechbox. Im guess the spring is "popping" while inside and causing some kind of jam

Really this spring can only go on one particular way..

Do I need this spring? Would the mechbox operate without it? - It seems to - and the trigger already operates with the upper trigger spring close to the tappet plate

Edit: I've also blown the only fuse I had as a result - Can I just get these from canadian tire? any particular type to look for? - the one I have is really tiny

[CDN_Stalker]

Take the fuse to CT and match it up, even with something higher such as 20A (they don't sell 15A).

You need that spring. Put the mechbox 95% together with the trigger spring relaxed, then use a small slotted screwdriver to push the tail in place when you have the mechbox halves together with a couple millimeter gap around the trigger. V2 is easy compared to V3!!!! Lol

[kyle milliken]

don't know about the trigger, but Canadian tire or any store that's sells car parts well have the fuse that you need just look for one that's the same as the one you blown.

[venture]

Without that spring your gun will probably work well in full auto, but the trigger will hang in semi and will have to be manually reset. The full auto trigger will feel spongy and soft but will probably function.

When you reassemble, make sure the spring and trigger are in properly. You can do as Cdn_Stalker or set it up before you bring the right side in at all. Marui ones will just sit there but many clone boxes can't hold it. Add a little weight to the trigger and it will stay for you. I often use the screwdriver handle of the driver I am using for the assembly of the box. Once the box is together properly the trigger is ready to go.

If it is not your spring, but the trigger itself is slipping off of the trigger block then you need a new trigger. Get steel and it won't happen again.

[Dynamo]

this is one of the reasons why i hate working on gearboxes so much.. you need 5 hands to keep everything together as you close the two halves of the gearbox shell... only to have either the trigger, anti-reverse latch, spring guide or cylinder fly out and or one if not all the gears pop out of alignment.. screwing up your awesome shim job... >_< (RAGE!!)

[Renegade)]

if you find the spring is popping out of the trigger too easy, put some grease on the trigger and spring and that helps hold it. If you find the bar that hits the mechbox, the pesky thing that wont stay in place while you reassemble, bend it down a bit carefully, until you get it to sit so it doesnt pop up. Takes some patience and fine tuning, but all of my guns I work on, now the trigger doesnt move at all on reassembly.

[SuperHog]

I highly suggest that you use a little CA glue to keep that pesty spring on the trigger at all times. There should be a tiny 1mm hole where the spring has a 90deg bend that sticks into it.

That part tends to pop off while you are holding the trigger in the mech box while trying to close it up.

[Jackarutu]

Before putting the piston spring in use hemostats to hold the trigger in place and if needed use a second pair to hold the Anti- Reverse in place. With those two locked down then put in the piston spring and align the top half of the gear box. When you get it down to where there is like a 1/4 inch or less gap between the gear case halves then loosen the hemostats and squeeze the housing together and Bob your uncle! You may have to use a scribe to align the anti-reverse shaft to the hole in the top case half as well as one of the gear shafts. It may take a little jiggering around to get the case to close but using the hemostats to stop the trigger from flying out will make it a whole lot easier.

Cheers

[Rabbit]

Pic added at the top -

Are all the springs shaped like this? I just ripped open another mechbox and the bent part was straight, however I tried to swap the two and the trigger wouldn't pull on the box im trying to fix.

I can't seem to get it to stay in one spot - the recoil on this thing is insane!

[Renegade)]

No.. that is bent downward, should be straight.

[venture]

Yeah, try bending that spring back a bit. It is too pressurized. That will make things easier.

[SuperHog]

Most triggers are one-piece pot metal where the pivot pin casted along with the trigger and is usually not completely round or undersized for the mech box pin holes.

[Danke]

That is a lot of bend on that spring.

What I do on mine is bend the spring inward a hair. Then it's not sitting right on split of the mechbox and it gives me an extra second to line things up and pop the shell back together.

[SuperHog]

I wonder how the assembler put it together at the factory with that bend.

[Rabbit]

Ya, it looks like a factory bend, no signs of warp.

I actually got it all together and I learned how that spring sits in properly, I guess thats just the way it is.. its a pain but its stiff as hell.

On a side note - Just went to canadian tired and picked up 3 boxes of the wrong fuses :/ I got both 20a and 25a ones, except they cylindrical shape is too wide for the fuse assembly the gun came with! The fuse that blew was abnormally small..

On the fuse that needs to be replaced it says: F20A250V

Honestly - I think it just going to take out the fuse assembly all together. This would be the first gun ive actually thought about keeping the fuse in.