Wires, connecters, and motor getting warm

[-Diesel-]

So i just installed some high torque gears, new piston, and spring guide on my G&G UMG. Once i dropped it into the reciever it and test fired the wires, connectors, and motor got warm. After a few more shots wires and connectors got really warm. I've removed it from the reciever to look for wires that may have been pinched, and they all seem to be in good condition and not under any stress. I also re-shimmed it since i read that too many shims might cause stress on the gearbox making the wires hot. Yet after doing all of this the wires, connectors, and motor still get very warm after a couple of shots from my 8.4v stick battery. What can i do to fix the problem or do i need to see a gun doc?

[Styrak]

Are you sure you shimmed it correctly? How are you sure?
Taking it to a gundoc is always a good idea.

[voorhees -FWA-]

A warm motor is ok, some motors do tend to warm up after firing. A warm - hot motor is a sign that it's not shimmed properly, or the anti-reverse latch is installed incorrectly, or that something is binding to make the motor work harder to pull the spring, or that your spring is too strong for the motor...

Taking it to a gun doc is the simplest solution...

[-Diesel-]

Well at first i had 3 shims per gear simply because the gears moved around while the gear box is closed. Now its at 2 shims per gear, and there is still some play with the gears but it stops moving once the motors in place. All the gears are lined up perfectly too. I'll try re shimming again, and how many shims should i start with to make all the gears match?

[Styrak]

There is no specific way to shim a gearbox. Every gearbox is different.
If you want to be sure it's shimmed correctly, take out the ant-reversal latch, cylinder, cylinder head, and tappet plate. This will allow the gears to spin freely. If they can smoothly make a few rotations when you spin them with your finger with the gearbox screwed down (through the hole previously occupied by the cylinder) then it should be fine

[EscapisT]

I had the same problem... try this.

Aside from being loud, everything was heating up as well. Connectors, motor, wires..

Originally Posted by EscapisT

I shimmed my new helicals last night... took over 4 hours... It was my first time so don't make fun of me!

Anyway, there is pretty much no lateral play, and the gears spin like 5-7 revolutions freely with the gearbox screwed tight.... The things is, when it's all assembled, those things are LOUD... way louder than normal... No grinding though... Teeth are completely contacting eachother.

I just got back from the skirmish today, and people where telling me how loud the gears were.... Surprisingly enough, I didn't get any problems, jams or lockups.

I spoke to a gundoc there who asked me how i shimmed them. I followed the guide, shimmed the spur as low as possible to clear the bearings and irregularities (if any) on the inner gearbox surface. Then, I shimmed the sector as low as possible but making sure it doesnt rub the top of the spur or cutoff lever... lastly, the bevel, as instructed.

He told me all the gears are supposed to be as centered as possible in the gearbox, not as low (to the left) as possible (for the spur and sector).

I looked everywhere for a proper guide on shimming helicals specifically. There are some threads, but none are very specific. All the guides for straight cut gears say to shim the spur and sector as low as possible. And ive skimmed throught ALOT of guides.

Your insights are greatly appreciated!

-Adam.






------------------SOLVED--------------------------






+1



+2

Of all the popular shimming articles, guides and threads I only saw 2 of ~15 that actually mention starting with the bevel gear, not the spur. (Excluding this one ^)

I restarted, but from the bevel this time and shimmed according to its height and my gun is as quiet as a mouse fart compared to before. AND my motor doesn't heat up one bit like before, AND my rate of fire skyrocketed.

I inserted my bevel, attached the motor cage with the motor inside, and tried different shims on the "top" of the bevel gear. The 0.2 worked best. What's weird is most people say that they try to keep their bevels as low as possible, like the spur gear, which IMO is totally stupid. It's pretty much forcing the pinion and bevel together... after a full skirmish like that, I was surpised to see NOT ONE BIT of wear on the pinion or bevel and believe me, they were TIGHTLY shimmed together.


+1 for king arms gears.

Like the man with the minigun says in the video. The pinion/motor is the only gear that has ONE fixed position... Logically, it's imperative that you start with the bevel and work your way from there.

I feel this is a large issue with online airsoft-tech databases; When searching for shimming guides, 90% say to start with the spur and work out from there.... which couldnt be more wrong.
They don't even MENTION this specific method for the bevel particularly.

This whole start with the bevel gear should have it's own sticky thread and smeared all over the online airsoft world, for the good of our guns, pride and money.

Heres how i did it
http://www.airsoft-barracks.com/foru...howtopic=24099

A good video.
YouTube - ‪Airsoft Minigun V2 V3 Gearbox Shimming Different Technique‬‏

When you shim it, close and screw the gearbox tight and test-spin the gears. You want them to spin freely... It's ok if you're only getting 2-4 revolutions of free spin with the gears all together, as long as nothing is resisting the free spin.

[-Diesel-]

So i reshimmed everythung starting with the bevel gear so there's no stress between the bevel gear and pinion gear and everything still gets fairly warm after around 2 mags... My only guess at this point would be the motor being to weak to pull the spring. It is the stock spring though.. so that might not be it. I'll probably just talk to a gun doc about it. Thanks for the help everyone.