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March 16th, 2009, 09:53 | #1 |
AK 47 semi-auto issues
I recently purchased this AK47 from turnbull
http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=76789 Just a quick copy/paste job for those of us too lazy to click: Internally: Classic Army metal hop up unit Guarder black hop up rubber CA metal gearbox with the following parts: --> Modify s100 spring --> Modify Bearing spring guide --> Modify Polycarbonate piston --> Modify Cylinder head --> Modify Air seal nozzle --> Modify Tappet plate --> Classic Army Stainless Steel bushings --> Stainless Steel shims ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Note: I'm mainly looking for an answer from m102404 as he allegedly did most of these upgrades. In fiddling with the battery I've noticed the black wire on it is extremely loose/bad contact, in fact it has been electrical taped i suppose for connection. This is not really an issue, i know i can just replace these wires. Its not a big issue sometimes i just have to smack the stock to get the connection going again. Largely my problem was: I fielded it for the first time yesterday and i found that firing it on semi will let me get 1-3 shots off and then it feels like it "jams" or something, but i have to put it on full auto to get any sort of shots out.1 I've also noticed that if i put it on full auto and let her rip (this mostly in the field) the selector arm has a tendency to slowly slide down to semi... which then gives me a jam Any ideas on what is stopping it from firing semi-auto effectively? thanks!
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Пусть он землю бережет родную, А любовь Катюша сбережет |
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March 16th, 2009, 10:07 | #2 |
aka coachster
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does it stop outright or does it stop mid cycle and leave the spring compressed? when you go to full auto, does it fire immediately or can you hear the motor/gear winding up?
fully charge the battery or try another one. |
March 16th, 2009, 10:31 | #3 |
Tys
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I did do those upgrades (a while ago...Dec or Jan I think) and test fired it before shipping it out. Obviously it's hard to vouch for what's done to it and how it's used after it leaves...but my read of Turnbull was that he was a solid guy to deal with.
Semi and Full Auto were working fine when it left the shop. I ran 200-300 rounds through it in testing, switching between semi and full throughout. I received the rifle pretty much fully disassembled and reassembled it and shipped it out intact. The only part that was not included for me to assemble was the rear stock and the wiring extension that would extend out from the mechbox and through the stock to the battery. Otherwise I shipped it out fully assembled. I did attach at least two different pigtails to the mechbox connector and did attach/reattach connectors to it several time throughout the upgrade, reassembly and testing. I cannot vouch for the extension wire. If the small connector that bridges the wiring between the mechbox and extension is in question...consider simply soldering and shrink-wrapping the wires to remove a point of low throughput in the wiring. The v3 lockup that you're experiencing is somewhat common when the selector get's "halfway inbetween" settings. I cannot remember if there was the plastic cap over the screw of the selector arm on that rifle...but regardless continue with: - on the pivot point of the selector arm, there may be plastic cap hiding the screw. Use a fine flat screwdriver or knife edge to get under it and pop it straight off. Don't tip one side off...it may break/deform the tab on the other side of it. Just straight up and then to put it back, press it straight down. - under that cap, if there was one, there should be a philips screw. That screw attaches and holds the selector arm onto the selector arm/cam of the mechbox. Tighten that screw and it will press the selector arm tighter against the AK body. The nub on the underside of the selector arm will engage the indents of the body more positively and stay in position. Tighten too tight and it becomes very stiff to move the selector...too loose and you've seen how the selector will drop out of position as the AEG vibrates as it's shot and from shaking and running around with it. Personally, I do not put loctite on that screw...it's engaging into the mechbox shell and I wouldn't risk stripping that out...but temporary (blue) loctite is an option. Myself, I just tighten it every now and then as needed. I hope that helps. Again, while I cannot "warranty" anything once it leaves my workbench, I'm obviously interested to see that anything I work on performs up to scratch. PM me if needed. Tys |
March 16th, 2009, 10:48 | #4 |
Age Verification Removed Due To Trade Dispute
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Sounds like standard airsoft AK issues, my friend. I was told once that on semi-auto you need a deliberate and full squeeze of the trigger to avoid the lockup and its worked okay for me so far.
I used blue Loc-tite on my selector screw without problems if you want to take that route but the constant movement of the lever means that over time even the Loc-Tite ceases to hold.
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Chairsofter extraordinaire |
March 16th, 2009, 11:05 | #5 |
Definitley NO complaints on this solid AK for the record
I suspect it's a selector arm issue/ poor trigger management on my part. Will test fire it again later in the week to let you know re: first response
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Пусть он землю бережет родную, А любовь Катюша сбережет |
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March 16th, 2009, 11:11 | #6 |
Tys
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That's good to hear....actually, I appreciate hearing both the good and the bad.
For whatever reasons G36's seem to be more prone to "feathering" the trigger in semi than other v3 AEGs. On the other hand, I've never had that problem with MP5K-PDW's...and somewhat rarely on AK's. My last AK used to do it a bit...but my current one doesn't at all. I still haven't found any rhyme or reason to it. Best of luck, Tys |
March 16th, 2009, 14:02 | #7 |
I had the same issue with locking up, worse with a low battery. When I installed a 9.6 over the 8.4 volt battery, never had a problem with it locking up since.
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Psst. it's okay. |
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March 16th, 2009, 14:03 | #8 |
Official ASC "Dumb Ass"
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sounds like the selector arms are worn, making it "slip" out out of semi and jam, resulting in u having to move back up to auto to unlock it, check out blazingtoys.com I think they have the replacement parts.
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March 16th, 2009, 14:04 | #9 |
I have the same problem with my AK as well, very rarely though.
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March 16th, 2009, 16:17 | #10 |
my kraken had this problem for quite awhile as well. I've heard that since the trigger pull is long, if you don't fully pull it, then she will lock up. Now I always try to make sure i don't "half" pull it. Seems to work ok then.
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Inside me is a thin woman, screaming to get out. But I can usually shut the b*tch up with chocolate. |
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March 16th, 2009, 16:36 | #11 |
The selector arm isn't as worn as there is almost a groove (well there is a scratch) on the metal body where the selector arm slides down...
gonna tighten it and such, really just be aware of it is all i need, it did get me killed once though crawling through the brush only to realize that it had slipped to jam after the first 3 shots
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Пусть он землю бережет родную, А любовь Катюша сбережет |
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March 16th, 2009, 16:40 | #12 | |
very common issue. both my ak have the same problem
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