Action switches only fire in auto?

Styrak · January 2nd, 2008, 16:37

Hey there, just got and installed an Action V2 front wired switch and wiring, and it lacks the metal contacts on the back of the switch with the positive wire coming off of it that the old one had . This concerns me. It seems like the motor (I haven't tried it actually firing cause of a blown piston) only goes in full auto, and I suspect it had something to do with those metal contacts and the selector. Help?

CDN_Stalker · January 2nd, 2008, 18:33

You can only get semi auto with the mechbox full and installed. The cut off lever needs to be knocked by the lobe on the sector gear in order to reset the contact/trigger. Get a new piston, put everything back together and try it out as a system, then get back to us. The motor outside of the mechbox (or inside with no piston) will just spin as long as you hold the trigger. And chances are you didn't have the selector plate in the correct position to engage the cut of lever properly.

Get back to us after you complete the mechbox and test it out in the gun.

Styrak · January 2nd, 2008, 18:36

Alright. That's what I kind of thought. But why is my old switch set up like this? In the first picture, my new switch doesn't have those contacts. They must serve some purpose. Just to complete the circuit because it's a shitty switch design? In any case, thanks.

CDN_Stalker · January 2nd, 2008, 18:49

What's the switch in the second pic, looks the same except other side? Looks pretty standard to me actually.

Anyways, semi isn't determined by the contacts, it's that little lever that gets hit by the lobe and snaps the contact block (the one the trigger presses forward) to retract away from the leaf contacts, breaking the circuit and giving semi only.

Styrak · January 2nd, 2008, 18:52

Oh sorry both picture are the same switch, my OLD one, back and front, respectively. The new one doesn't have the 2 contacts in the first picture.

Quote:

Originally Posted by CDN_Stalker

Anyways, semi isn't determined by the contacts, it's that little lever that gets hit by the lobe and snaps the contact block (the one the trigger presses forward) to retract away from the leaf contacts, breaking the circuit and giving semi only.

Is that the "cut off lever"? Little metal lever.

CDN_Stalker · January 2nd, 2008, 19:26

Ya, little lever on the inside of the mechbox that sits ahead of the sector gear. That little spring on the selector plate presses up against the lever onthe outside.

Kos-Mos · January 2nd, 2008, 20:06

I never played with V2 mechbox... but he is right.

In a trigger-controlled switch (P90, AUG, any 2 stage trigger), there is 3 or 4 copper tabs. and usually 2 separate switches connected in parallel to be able to run semi/full

If your switch is working, then your 2 copper contact (or lack or) are not the problem.

Check on mechbox right side close to the sector gear axle... usually the semi cut-off is around there. You can manually operate it with the motor out of your gearbox (prevent dry fire) but you will have to test it with everything installed (including piston and spring) to make sure.

I got to repair a JG G36 that had the cut-off lever too short, it would engage when manually pushed, but not when the mechbox was complete. I simply added the sector gear chip usualy to allow a longer "open chamber" state. It pushes a bit furter the cut-off and it works.

Styrak · January 2nd, 2008, 20:12

Thanks for all the info. Now I just have to wait a week or so for my new piston :P.

Kos-Mos · January 8th, 2008, 01:29

I looked at the guns I had to work on here.

And found an interesting fact.

The two tabs on the side of your trigger group (the ones that are not there on your new switch) are just electrical safety.

You can simply solder the two together and remove the coper tab of the selector plate. Then you will only be left with a mechanica safety. I found out on a Echo1 G36. I had the Echo1 mechbox side by my Star G36 mechbox. The contacts where soldered together and the selector plate was just nylon, no copper plate. I soldered my selector plate and Tada! Works just like normal. The only difference is that there is a lot less resistance AND I can push both way inside. That removes a lot of friction off the selector plate and allow for a smoother movement. I think I will do that on all my guns.

It removes a safety though. But for people with higher spring/battery packs, it IS a very good thing to do. The battery will last longer and there won't be any melted selector plate left. Plus the smoother action. Now the only restriction I have on my selector plate is from the spring loaded bearing in it. Clicks very well with a more satisfying snap. Before I had a hard time changing fire mode from auto to semi. I had to slide back to safe, then switch to semi.

Styrak · January 8th, 2008, 01:43

Kos-Mos, keep in mind, those pictures are my OLD switch. So one that I'm throwing away. My new ones does not have those metal tabs, so no worries. It's also a "low-resistance" switch, which might be in part because of that.

zone 69 · January 16th, 2008, 07:30

Update please,,Like to know if the action switch worked out for you.

Styrak · January 16th, 2008, 14:19

Heh, now I'm waiting on a piston cause I blew that. I'm expecting it any day now though.

zone 69 · January 16th, 2008, 14:35

Quote:

Originally Posted by Styrak

Heh, now I'm waiting on a piston cause I blew that. I'm expecting it any day now though.

OK,,thank,s,,Im looking at getting a couple for my gun,s and just like to know if they work for you or not before I buy them. thank,s again.

Styrak · January 22nd, 2008, 02:33

As an update, it works! It works! Semi and auto both seem to work smoothly. Yay for my custom M4.

DYORD · January 22nd, 2008, 11:22

actually.. the way i see it.. the contacts on the side is the switch for both semi & full auto.. When you put it in safety.. the selector plate will move backwards, turning off the switch.. ( so it's locked & turned off).

anyhow.. some brands doesnt have this feature.. It is turned on the whole time... It's just the trigger-"lock" that plays as the safety switch.

Home	Forums	Register	Gallery	FAQ	Calendar
Retailers	Community	News/Info	International Retailers	IRC	Today's Posts

British Columbia	Alberta
BCAC	EAR
Op-For	JOC
Northern Arms Airsoft	Skunkworx Airsoft
Airsoft Kelowna	RAAT
Prince George Airsoft	Manitoba
Saskatchewan	MAA
SK Airsoft	Ontario
PDW	Airsoft Ottawa
South Sask Mercs	Snow Dragons
Quebec	1st Ranger Platoon
PQAC	Wolfpack Tactical
1st Pathfinders Regiment	TTAC3
Quebec Airsoft
MTX Airsoft	Atlantic
FAQc	Atlantic Airsoft

January 2nd, 2008, 16:37	#1
Styrak Trader rating Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Saskatoon, SK	Action switches only fire in auto? Hey there, just got and installed an Action V2 front wired switch and wiring, and it lacks the metal contacts on the back of the switch with the positive wire coming off of it that the old one had . This concerns me. It seems like the motor (I haven't tried it actually firing cause of a blown piston) only goes in full auto, and I suspect it had something to do with those metal contacts and the selector. Help? __________________ Airsoft Sales and Repair/Upgrade Services

January 2nd, 2008, 18:33	#2
CDN_Stalker Official ASC Bladesmith Trader rating Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Ottawa, Ont.	You can only get semi auto with the mechbox full and installed. The cut off lever needs to be knocked by the lobe on the sector gear in order to reset the contact/trigger. Get a new piston, put everything back together and try it out as a system, then get back to us. The motor outside of the mechbox (or inside with no piston) will just spin as long as you hold the trigger. And chances are you didn't have the selector plate in the correct position to engage the cut of lever properly. Get back to us after you complete the mechbox and test it out in the gun. __________________ STKR Knives http://www.facebook.com/#!/pages/STK...17036668380871

January 2nd, 2008, 18:36	#3
Styrak Trader rating Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Saskatoon, SK	Alright. That's what I kind of thought. But why is my old switch set up like this? In the first picture, my new switch doesn't have those contacts. They must serve some purpose. Just to complete the circuit because it's a shitty switch design? In any case, thanks. __________________ Airsoft Sales and Repair/Upgrade Services

January 2nd, 2008, 18:49	#4
CDN_Stalker Official ASC Bladesmith Trader rating Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Ottawa, Ont.	What's the switch in the second pic, looks the same except other side? Looks pretty standard to me actually. Anyways, semi isn't determined by the contacts, it's that little lever that gets hit by the lobe and snaps the contact block (the one the trigger presses forward) to retract away from the leaf contacts, breaking the circuit and giving semi only. __________________ STKR Knives http://www.facebook.com/#!/pages/STK...17036668380871

January 2nd, 2008, 19:26	#6
CDN_Stalker Official ASC Bladesmith Trader rating Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Ottawa, Ont.	Ya, little lever on the inside of the mechbox that sits ahead of the sector gear. That little spring on the selector plate presses up against the lever onthe outside. __________________ STKR Knives http://www.facebook.com/#!/pages/STK...17036668380871

January 2nd, 2008, 20:06	#7
Kos-Mos Trader rating Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Lévis (QC)	I never played with V2 mechbox... but he is right. In a trigger-controlled switch (P90, AUG, any 2 stage trigger), there is 3 or 4 copper tabs. and usually 2 separate switches connected in parallel to be able to run semi/full If your switch is working, then your 2 copper contact (or lack or) are not the problem. Check on mechbox right side close to the sector gear axle... usually the semi cut-off is around there. You can manually operate it with the motor out of your gearbox (prevent dry fire) but you will have to test it with everything installed (including piston and spring) to make sure. I got to repair a JG G36 that had the cut-off lever too short, it would engage when manually pushed, but not when the mechbox was complete. I simply added the sector gear chip usualy to allow a longer "open chamber" state. It pushes a bit furter the cut-off and it works.

January 2nd, 2008, 20:12	#8
Styrak Trader rating Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Saskatoon, SK	Thanks for all the info. Now I just have to wait a week or so for my new piston :P. __________________ Airsoft Sales and Repair/Upgrade Services

January 8th, 2008, 01:29	#9
Kos-Mos Trader rating Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Lévis (QC)	I looked at the guns I had to work on here. And found an interesting fact. The two tabs on the side of your trigger group (the ones that are not there on your new switch) are just electrical safety. You can simply solder the two together and remove the coper tab of the selector plate. Then you will only be left with a mechanica safety. I found out on a Echo1 G36. I had the Echo1 mechbox side by my Star G36 mechbox. The contacts where soldered together and the selector plate was just nylon, no copper plate. I soldered my selector plate and Tada! Works just like normal. The only difference is that there is a lot less resistance AND I can push both way inside. That removes a lot of friction off the selector plate and allow for a smoother movement. I think I will do that on all my guns. It removes a safety though. But for people with higher spring/battery packs, it IS a very good thing to do. The battery will last longer and there won't be any melted selector plate left. Plus the smoother action. Now the only restriction I have on my selector plate is from the spring loaded bearing in it. Clicks very well with a more satisfying snap. Before I had a hard time changing fire mode from auto to semi. I had to slide back to safe, then switch to semi.

January 8th, 2008, 01:43	#10
Styrak Trader rating Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Saskatoon, SK	Kos-Mos, keep in mind, those pictures are my OLD switch. So one that I'm throwing away. My new ones does not have those metal tabs, so no worries. It's also a "low-resistance" switch, which might be in part because of that. __________________ Airsoft Sales and Repair/Upgrade Services

January 16th, 2008, 07:30	#11
zone 69 Trader rating Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: KELOWNA , B.C CANADA, PLANET EARTH	Update please,,Like to know if the action switch worked out for you.

January 16th, 2008, 14:19	#12
Styrak Trader rating Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Saskatoon, SK	Heh, now I'm waiting on a piston cause I blew that. I'm expecting it any day now though. __________________ Airsoft Sales and Repair/Upgrade Services

January 22nd, 2008, 02:33	#14
Styrak Trader rating Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Saskatoon, SK	As an update, it works! It works! Semi and auto both seem to work smoothly. Yay for my custom M4. __________________ Airsoft Sales and Repair/Upgrade Services

January 22nd, 2008, 11:22	#15
DYORD Trader rating Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Philippines	actually.. the way i see it.. the contacts on the side is the switch for both semi & full auto.. When you put it in safety.. the selector plate will move backwards, turning off the switch.. ( so it's locked & turned off). anyhow.. some brands doesnt have this feature.. It is turned on the whole time... It's just the trigger-"lock" that plays as the safety switch. __________________ MORE FPS :banghead:

Action switches only fire in auto?

Doctor's Corner