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R-Hop/Flat-Hop in Toronto or GTA?

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Old September 4th, 2016, 18:08   #16
Syndakit
 
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Yep, just checked. M nubs, ir z kit and installation tool are all in Stock

And it is from Toronto. So you should get it fairly quick
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Old September 4th, 2016, 18:10   #17
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Just take your time with it. Be confident in your ability and you shouldn't have any problems.
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Old September 4th, 2016, 19:06   #18
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He doesn't stock the vsr arm, or the cleaning rod and tool unfortunately.
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Old September 4th, 2016, 20:03   #19
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You essentially are just taking off the sharp leading edge to avoid any binding with the BB hitting the side of the patch as it comes through the barrel. I personally don't get too fussed about the outside sanding after everything has cured. I mean its airsoft and there are a number of different inner diameters on barrels as well the fact that BB's vary in size from one to the next. Less so for higher quality BB's.

My point is, don't sweat it if your patch and the outside of your barrel aren't precisely the same. A very slight difference in my experience doesn't amount to any difference at all. I'm sure that on some level getting it perfect must provide some benefit but I haven't seen it. This process requires some patience and some common sense. If you don't have either, get someone to do the job for you. The HS5 kits are great but if you are planning on doing a few, then buying the tubing from McMaster-Carr is far more economical. Of course, then you have to cut your own patches which is another story altogether.

Good luck, the modification yields phenomenal results when performed correctly.

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You can tell from how he has the tool in the vice. Your 2nd picture, if the bottom is the inside of the barrel. And as he says, you only take off just a wee little bit.

And I don't know what you mean he doesn't explain, I think he explains what he is doing just fine.
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Old September 4th, 2016, 21:06   #20
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Can you get away with not using the HS5 installation tools?
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Old September 4th, 2016, 23:27   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossco66 View Post
You essentially are just taking off the sharp leading edge to avoid any binding with the BB hitting the side of the patch as it comes through the barrel. I personally don't get too fussed about the outside sanding after everything has cured. I mean its airsoft and there are a number of different inner diameters on barrels as well the fact that BB's vary in size from one to the next. Less so for higher quality BB's.

My point is, don't sweat it if your patch and the outside of your barrel aren't precisely the same. A very slight difference in my experience doesn't amount to any difference at all. I'm sure that on some level getting it perfect must provide some benefit but I haven't seen it. This process requires some patience and some common sense. If you don't have either, get someone to do the job for you. The HS5 kits are great but if you are planning on doing a few, then buying the tubing from McMaster-Carr is far more economical. Of course, then you have to cut your own patches which is another story altogether.

Good luck, the modification yields phenomenal results when performed correctly.
Do you know what tubing it is on Mc Master Carr by any chance?
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Old September 4th, 2016, 23:39   #22
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If you're only doing 1 rhop, honestly just get a good tech like zim to do it.
I dont think anyones ever done a perfect rhop the first time. I know guys that have done over 20 rhops and theyre still not doing it right.
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Old September 5th, 2016, 04:24   #23
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Originally Posted by volteco View Post
Do you know what tubing it is on Mc Master Carr by any chance?
https://www.reddit.com/r/airsoft/com...terial_thread/

Here you go. Google is awesome!
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Old September 5th, 2016, 12:52   #24
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Can you get away with not using the HS5 installation tools?
I would concur that if you are doing a one off the HS5 kit or getting a good tech to do it is a smart idea.

You absolutely do not need the HS5 tools to do this work. If you are going to be doing this ongoing, building a cutting jig is essential and makes the process far more accurate and repeatable.

A down and dirty method is to get a 6mm dowel. Draw horizontal lines on it by holding it up against a level surface with a 90 degree edge and running a fine point pen along the side. Once the lines are in place you can insert the dowel into the barrel (ensure that there are lines that coincide with the edges of your barrel window. Slide the McMaster Carr material over the dowel and hold it in place while you take a sharp tool that runs along the line on the dowel. Ensure the angle of the tool is the same as the side of the barrel window. Keep pressure on the top of the tubing and do the reverse side. Cutting for length is the easy part.

This method is far inferior to have a cutting jig but it will do the job. Use Permatex RTV blue, black or red as your adhesive. The same dowel can be cut to use as the part that gets inserted into the barrel to prevent any adhesive from getting inside.
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Old September 10th, 2016, 14:35   #25
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Nah, BIG THUMBS down for the hsa kit.

I need an actual person to do this for me.
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Commandment 1 of LMGesus: Fuck getting kills. That's the job of your teammates, otherwise known as the cannon fodder. Your job is to be scary.
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Old September 10th, 2016, 14:42   #26
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I'd be happy to buy a pre-R-hopped decent barrel also. I"m not 20 tries in yet but I'm getting there and still not happy with the result. Being on an AEG that requires a complete tear down to remove the barrel and hop it's tedious and eventually some of the little bits will start to strip or go awry.
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Old September 10th, 2016, 14:51   #27
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Nah, BIG THUMBS down for the hsa kit.

I need an actual person to do this for me.
What part did you find too difficult?
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Old September 10th, 2016, 15:01   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Syndakit View Post
What part did you find too difficult?
Only one of the patches was anywhere close to being the right fit for the EDGi barrel...and after leaving it to cure for 24 hours to patch simply popped right off.

Using black permatex rtv. Tried twice. Once using just a small amount on all four sides and rubbing some on the outside, and then the second time using a fairly large amount..same result. Using 400 grit sandpaper just like the video shows...just falls off within the first few passes.

Plus the experience in general of not being sure of what the fuck im doing, how far to go for cutting, sanding ect.

I work 70 hours a week, this was a waste of my limited time and money.

Sent a message to Ziming/Pesto. Hopefully I can get a proper patch put in before the milsim next week.
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Is he a spambot or is he a francophone? I really can't tell the difference sometimes.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Latvian291 View Post
This is one of the funniest things I've read.
Commandment 1 of LMGesus: Fuck getting kills. That's the job of your teammates, otherwise known as the cannon fodder. Your job is to be scary.
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Old September 10th, 2016, 15:04   #29
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Have moved on to RHOPing pistols just cause I hated the range I was getting. I figured out how to do TM based Hop Ups and have done a few KJWs and a WE. Range increases are up to a near double. The biggest advantage though comes from a much flatter trajectory and the ability to lift heavier ammo.

My 1911 is capable of lifting .36g out to 140+ feet with a flat trajectory. I run .32s myself that go out 150+ but I was curious as to what was possible so I tried the .36gs for shits and giggles.

I have moved on to my KWA M9 PTP now. Install went smoothly, just have to test and tune to see what the results are. My thinking was that if I can do the KWA pistol then the KWA MP7 is possible as well. My MP7 will be the next patient on the operating table. It's such a pain in the ass to disassemble and reassemble that I wasn't willing to work on it rather than the pistol which is far easier to experiment on.

I will post the results of the KWA if anyone is intersted.
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Old September 10th, 2016, 15:06   #30
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Quote:
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Using black permatex rtv. Tried twice. Once using just a small amount on all four sides and rubbing some on the outside, and then the second time using a fairly large amount..same result. Using 400 grit sandpaper just like the video shows...just falls off within the first few passes.
Sometimes it's the surface of the metal that is the issue. Try exposing some bare metal in the sides of the window before applying the RTV. You need a very small amount to do the job.
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