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WA SVI 5 IED problems, lil'bit-o-everything

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Old August 28th, 2005, 12:51   #1
Oddjob
 
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WA SVI 5 IED problems, lil'bit-o-everything

So I have a used WA SVI 5" and I am having a few weeee little problems.

(Using AI adapter and Coleman propane bottle)

First, the mag doesnt want to hold propane at all. I've used lots of Silicone oil on every part imaginable. At first on the mag I didnt notice the valve was held open by a little sliding peice of steel so after I just pushed that down and tried to fill it up the mag would barely take any gas. Two maybe three shots. When I am trying to fill up the mag there is lots of propane going everywhere except in the mag. I've tried moving around to all sorts of positions to try and get a proper seal but nothing has worked. Could there be something wrong with the valve or is it just me?

Next up is feeding. So the one or two shots worth of propane is in the mag, cock the slide and let her go forward. Unfortionally it doesnt go all the way forward. It stops with maybe 1/4" to go. Reason is that three of four BB's are floating around inside the gun. As soon as I try to cock it BB's just flood out of the mag. Even after I remove all the free BB's and try to crack a shot off just to see if it even fires we get more problems!

When I fire the gun, sometimes there wasnt even blowback. It just fired and thats it. Or, something more wonderful would happen. The gun would fire, the slide would cycle back and then stop, and in all its glory I could see the entire blowback system with a pretty spring and all sorts of parts through the shell ejection port.

All of this happened with only 5 pulls of the trigger. I have not even fired five bb's through the gun so far.

So what the hell is happening and how do I fix it?

Thanks folks
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Old August 28th, 2005, 12:56   #2
Mantelope
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Usually I'd try to walk one through resolving those problems, but because of the magnitude and quantity of problems, and the fact it's a WA, I'd recommend taking it to a resident GBB doc.
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Old August 28th, 2005, 12:59   #3
Oddjob
 
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Thanks Harley, figured I'd ask here first. Needless to say I am never buying used off ASC again. Two lemons in a row is making me angry.

Thanks again.
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Old August 28th, 2005, 13:21   #4
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sorry to hear about ur gun man. i have a wa 92f perfect version. all i can reccommend is to fieldstrip the gun and make sure all the parts are in the correct spot and make sure it's lubed. i did have 2 bbs jammed behing the nozzle before and that caused some problems until i found them. remember that wa guns aren't supposed to use propane unless u get that sequen looking thing for wa guns from ai or it'll blow the seal in the mag or crack the slide. i've used propane with out the sequen thing for about a year and i've no probs yet.......yet*knock on wood*
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Old August 28th, 2005, 13:36   #5
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I just bought an aluminium slide from AI to deal with the cracking problem three days ago. Decided since I have a new slide coming I would take the chance only to find out its fubar.
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Old September 1st, 2005, 01:10   #6
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I'll address your problems individually.
The mag leaking problem:
- Fill the mag with however much gas you can. Then fully submerge the magazine in warm water. Notice where the bubbles are forming and that's where your leak is. If the leak is from the bottom where you fill the mag, then it's a pretty easy fix. Just disassemble the fill nozzle using a flathead screwdriver (be VERY careful not to deform the nozzle as it's made out of very soft brass). Once the nozzle is taken off, you just dissassemble THAT (it consists of 3 pieces I believe). You have to unscrew it to reveal the 2nd and 3rd piece. Lube all the pieces with silicon oil and reassemble. It should help the leaking. I've run across this problem A LOT in my time working with GBBs of all makes.
If the leak is coming from the top (where the valve is), then you need to disassemble the valve and inspect the orings for any cracks or tears. Soak them all in silicon oil and reassemble. This is fairly easy to do if you have the WA valve key (which u need to buy seperately). IF you dont have this, then you CAN use a small pair of pliers to unscrew that valve. Oh, before you do this, you'll have to remove the valve lock thingy (that thing that pops up when the valve is pressed). Use a metric hex key (dont know the size off hand).

-The part about the bbs not chambering properly (ie. you're getting 4 of them bunched up like that) is caused by your magazine lips being worn out. The magazine lip is the part that where the bbs come out of. If it's worn out, not much u can do but get a new magazine. The other area that could be causing the misfeed is the actual nozzle. The nozzle can be worn down. I've seen this before where the front portion of the nozzle is deformed and causing the bbs to spit out like crazy when the slide comes back. You'll have to buy a new nozzle to correct this.

The part about the firing:
-If you press the trigger and the gun fires a bb and the slide doesnt move back at all.. this is called a light strike and happens because your hammer spring is too weak and/or the pressure in the magazine is too high due to high temperature. In summer , a lot of peoples guns behave like this because there springs are unupgraded and the WA guns were meant to be used with low pressure HFC 134a gas not propane.


These are just some of the problems I've run across while working on WA guns. There are some more but the bottom line is, WA guns are super picky. The new SCW2 guns aren't as bad as I find their much more user friendly in terms of reliability. The SVI IED 5.0 is a very old gun.. I believe it's like 3 years old. A lot has improved with WA guns since then and you are the unlucky owner of a lemon. If you like, you can mail it to me and I can take a look at it.. If I can't fix it, I'll pay you the shipping. I have a ton of spare parts lying around that may help your gun.
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Old September 1st, 2005, 11:28   #7
nutboi
 
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gooseman, do you have the thing that u buy at ai so that u can use propane with ur wa gun?

i think i found my new local techy for my WA U.S. 9mm M9 Mil-Spec ( Heavy-Weight )!!!!!!
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Old September 2nd, 2005, 03:02   #8
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no, sorry. I don't have the gas flow restrictor
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Old September 2nd, 2005, 04:20   #9
MadMax
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Pretty good reply Gooseman. I can only add a few things to check out:

-is the rubber seal at top of the mag torn? The hole should be obround (rectangular with semicircular ends). If it's kind of shaped like a "T" with a rectangular section removed towards the rear of the mag, then your seal is damaged (pretty common)

rubber replacement video:
http://www.airsoft-innovations.com/?...ducts&id=WA-01

-light strike diagnosis: try putting the mag into the fridge for 5-10min. If your gun recoils consistently with a cold mag, but not with a warm one, you have a light striking issue

-stuck nozzle: take the slide off and pull the nozzle forward. Inspect the oring plunger mounted to the slide. Sometimes these get swollen and they bind in the nozzle. For detailled dissassembly you can watch my flow restrictor installation video online:

http://www.airsoft-innovations.com/v...on_scw_sml.mov
http://www.airsoft-innovations.com/?...ducts&id=AI-03

Look at your nozzle and compare it against the one in my video. It'll give you an idea if it's super worn.
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Old September 24th, 2005, 17:42   #10
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And one more thing I'd like to add that is SO important and so misunderstood by many: too much lube is just as bad as no lube. Too much lube actually gum things up.

For me before I diagnose anything, I strip the gun totally to pieces and clean every piece with q-tips. Completely clean. And rebuild it and ONLY lube lightly where lube is needed:

1. slide rails.
2. hammer firing pin hinge, and hammer strut hinge.
3. sear, disconnector (right), and mag impact lock piece (left).
4. the tips of the leaf spring.
5. back of trigger bow.
6. bottom of breech (where the hammer slides on).
7. pull out the nozzle a bit and lube the tracks where it travels.
8. pull it a bit more and quick lube the o-ring.
9. slidestop axle
10. outer barrel (outside), recoil guide.
11. tiny bit where the chamber grinds the hopup unit.
12. hammer and sear axles (pins)

The other parts really don't need any lube.
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