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Make Your Own Suppressor, Writeup and Pics!!!

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Old October 20th, 2005, 19:14   #1
nemesis_83
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Cold Lake Alberta
Make Your Own Suppressor, Writeup and Pics!!!

I started this last night using various materials from home depot and crappy tire, I was supposed to do a writeup but had no time plus the camera was dead, I finally finished it today, let me know what you think.




The rest of the MP5 is currently in pieces as I am experimenting with different barrels I made.




I wouldnt mind getting some white lettering on here, does anyone know where I could find a really small stencil? or should I not bother with lettering?





Let me know what you guys think, I took my time on this.


HOW TO.

Ok, I know I didnt take pictures of the process but I'll try to explain it to the best of my abilities.

Here is what you need, you can find these materials at home depot and canadian tire or any other major hardware store.

Plumbing/Bathroom section:

1) 3/4" OD piece of plastic/PVC/ABS(not sure what it is) pipe, Both ends are threaded, it is gray in color and comes in 1' long lengths

Cost: around $1.75 CHEAP!!!!!

2) 1/4"OD X 3"L threaded cast iron pipe/connector, this looks like the above but is small enough to screw in to a gun (This was done with a UTG MP5, I'm not sure if all the threads are the same in all guns, but I imagine they should be)

Cost: around $2.00

3) 1/4"OD X 1/2"L threaded cast iron connector, same as above but only 1/2" long.

Cost: about $0.99

4) 3 copper fittings, the type that would join 2 copper water pipes together, Standard size, if youre not sure, make sure it slides perfectly in to the plastic pipe.

Cost: about $0.30 each

5) Black electrical tape

6) Pipe cutter, the type that you tighten as you move it around a pipe and it makes a perfect cut.

Cost: No idea, I had one at home, you can borrow one from a friend or a mechanic, they should have one.
Make sure its big enough to cut the plastic pipe.

7) Cold weld, or otherwise known as JB weld, its an eboxy type compound that cures in to a solid plastic-like form.

Cost: between $7.00 - $10.00 depending on brand.

8 ) sand paper, 220 grit and 1000 grit

9) Xacto Knife

10) Drill or drill press, I used my drill press.

11) Dremel tool, or you can use the above, but you need some sort of cutting tool that will smooth out the inside of a fitting, must have a 1" reach.
You can buy cutting bits for a dremel tool at canadian tire for about 5 bux, I had a diamond cutter for my drill press so I juse used that.

12) primer and flat black paint.

Ok, I think I covered all the materials, now for the hard part.

Take your barrel and make sure it fits nicely in to your cast iron pieces, mine didnt, so I had to bore the pieces out a bit, took about 5 seconds and a drill bit the right size just to scuff up the inside of the cast since its rough.

The copper connectors have a bulge on the inside, this is there so when you are joining 2 water pipes together they both stop in the middle. we need to get rid of this bulge so the inside wall is nice and smooth.

Use the dremel and cutter to do this.

Next, cut the plastic pipe to the desired length with the cutter, I cut mine to about 155mm, after all is said and done my supressor is 153mm long you have 1' to work with ;-)

after cutting you will need to sand down the inside of the plastic pipe in order to be able to slide the cooper pieces back in, sand down untill they go in snug.

It is a good idea to prep your plastic pipe now, you will notice that it has seams along both sides of it, sand down the pipe so its smooth, you might want to round the front of it (front of your supressor) so it looks just like mine. play around, get creative if you can, but there is some sanding involved and dusting off and making sure everything looks good and straight, you dont want to have more material one one side and less on the other, especially when youre trying to sand in a profile.

Now, the idea is for your barrel to be sitting inside the cast iron connectors, these act as the barrel housing and guide.

The problem is that between these pieces and the copper pieces there is quite the gap.

This is where the tape comes in.

startig with the 3" cast piece, start wrapping electrical tape tightly and evenly from the very beginning of one side to where the threads start on the other side
(You dont want to wrap the whole thing as these threads go right in to your gun and you need them)

It is really crucial to do a nice and even pattern when applying the tape all around, the gap may be only 1mm on eash side but if you do a bad job then your supressor will turn out crooked and it wont look as good as mine.

It took me 3 times to do it perfectly, basically you have to tape at a 45* angle and avoid any overlap, you will need to tape it at least 3 times from start to finish then back, do it all in one shot and dont cut the tape then do another layer, then cut the tape again...you get the point.
Make sure its really tight too.

now, do this untill the fitting slides very snug in to the copper piece, if you have too much tape, simply cut some off with your knife, the best way to tell if its snug enough is you will have to apply a significant amount of force to get it in, if the tape starts to bunch up, then you have too much tape.

It is really important that you do this right, or else your supressor will be crooked, the idea is to have everything as straight and on center as possible.

Do the same to your 1/2" piece of cast iron.

Ok, mix up a SMALL (size of a dime) amount of JB weld, the proportions are 50/50, mix it up really good, it should turn gray in color.

Now take the 3" piece of cast fitting with the threads that will go in to your gun and smear a generous amount of weld on to the taped portion, then press on the copper pieces, remember 2 go on the 3"piece and the last one goes on to the 1/2" piece. wait 30 minutes.

Next, (I assume you prepped your plastic pipe?) take parts that you made and smear some JB weld on the copper this time, this will be going in to your plactic pipe.

The copper should be just shy of being flush with the plastic pipe, wait for it to cure, should take about 30 minutes.

After 30 minutes are up do the same with the 1/2" cast iron piece and the copper fitting you have left over, once again, make it just shy of the end of the pipe, wait 30 more minutes, the hard part is over with.

Here is a cross-sectional diagram of what it looks like.





Mix up some JB weld, you will be using this around the copper piece and the plastic pipe to fill in that shy gap, maybe .5-1mm

wait a hour since you put a thick portion on this time and it needs to be fully cured so you can sand it.

you can use the JB weld to fill in any imperfections on the plastic, I'm sure there will be some, there was a dimple in mine.

after it cures, sand it down, right now is a good time to do your final profile on the pipe and make it look like an actuall supressor, sant it lightly with the 220 and then do your final with the 1000.

Primer it, sand it again with the 1000, then paint it., youre done. thread that sucker in to your gun with your extended barrel and enjoy it.

Hope this helps, if you guys want me to clarify anything, let me know.

I wish you guys were here to see it, the fit and finish is nice, it is cheap to make and very durable, it dosnt feel like a toy either, it weighs about .25 Lbs
It also threads in to the gun really good, no wabble like you get with some brass fittings. Sway away from brass. if for some reason the threads feel lose, add a layer of tape on top of them and then thread it in, should go in snug.

This writeup is for the UTG MP5, It should work on most guns but there may be differences in size between some guns and others.

Once again, hope you guys found this usefull.

Edit, It was brought to my attention that alot of gun use a male end on the muzzle and the supressor would be a female end...do not panic, simply go to a hardware store and buy the correct size tap, you will have to find a piece of stainless, or cast pipe that you can thread in to, that will fit inside the copper pieces, make a thread in it (make sure to use threading oil) and youre all set.
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Old October 20th, 2005, 19:33   #2
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I love it...how did you do it?
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Old October 20th, 2005, 19:37   #3
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Don't bother with lettering, you don't want to mess THAT up.
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Old October 20th, 2005, 19:38   #4
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Hold up guys, I'm doing a detailed writeup under the pics, should be done soon.
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Old October 20th, 2005, 19:44   #5
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I agree with the lettering, you really don't want to screwup that kind of work. However, if you had your own logo, you should get it proffesionally engraved.
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Old October 20th, 2005, 19:46   #6
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nice silencer man



was the picture taken on the bathroom floor?? I think I see a pube.....
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Old October 20th, 2005, 19:52   #7
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Originally Posted by ToRN
nice silencer man



was the picture taken on the bathroom floor?? I think I see a pube.....
It's a spider leg :wink:

Seriously, really nice job!! Is the interior ported to actually supress the noise?
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Old October 20th, 2005, 19:56   #8
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Originally Posted by FOX_111
Is the interior ported to actually supress the noise?
I don't think so: on the first picture, you can see that the copper inner barrel makes the whole length of the silencer.

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Old October 20th, 2005, 20:00   #9
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you have skills. Nice job. And it sounds like it was cheap to make too from HD and CanT parts. Oh and let us know what parts you made it from if you don't mind. You have tempted me to try one.


Great instructions posted too.
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Old October 20th, 2005, 20:01   #10
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I may be mistaken, but the inner barrel could have been pushed up unusualy far, which would explain why it's protruding. the barrel behind the suppressor (what would be inside the gun) seems short to me in the picture.
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Old October 20th, 2005, 20:27   #11
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i can't wait to see the wirte up on that, i wouldn't mind trying to do something like that myself, if i have the proper tools to do so

Nice job man :tup:
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Old October 20th, 2005, 21:01   #12
nemesis_83
 
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Writeup is up, thanks for all the comments guys.

LOL, and no its not a pube, its cat hair or dust or some crap like that, the pic was taken in my room, but since I have dark green carpets I put some printer paper down so I have a nice white background.
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Old October 21st, 2005, 18:58   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nemesis_83
Writeup is up, thanks for all the comments guys.
Hum... when you were talking about a writeup, I wished it was a "how to build your own in 3 easy steps"... Anyway, it looks really great, nice work!

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Old October 21st, 2005, 19:01   #14
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Very sexy man, nice work, and as far as lettering, I agree, you don't wanna fuck it up, but you could always just paint over it again, though I'd look for those rub on letters and do it that way, it'd probably turn out better, then just put some matte clear-coat on it.
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Old October 21st, 2005, 23:59   #15
nemesis_83
 
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Ok, so a few people kept asking me if it supresses the sound, some asked if I can make one that does, well since the barrel was way too long for me and gave me poor performance, I made another barrel today, this one is awesome, I can pinpoint the corner of a cerial box from across the basement (20 meters)

So I took my suppressor and took the front out, I had to break the JB weld to do this, I took out the 1/4" X 1" cast iron insert that the barrel rested agains and replaced it with a plastic 9mm insert, I also had some copper pipe insulating foam, so I stuffed that inside the supressor.

Here is what it looks like.



So now it will look like a 9mm is being pointed at you., anyway, the sound tone changes but it dosnt exactly suppress the sound much, I will try making a bigger fatter suppressor another time.
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