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GBB Rifle Lubrication "Oils"

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Old April 9th, 2012, 20:02   #1
slink182
 
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GBB Rifle Lubrication "Oils"

G'day all.

I'm making the leap into GBBRs this year, but I'm concerned about "safe" oils for maintenance purposes. My background includes care and use of RS pistols/rifles, but I'm not certain if the lubes I use there would be safe for the GBBRs. My current gun oils are "polymer safe", since I own a number of firearms that have mixed components (i.e., steel & polymer).

So, are my RS "polymer safe" oils also safe for GBBRs? Should I be concerned about the oils contaminating the o-rings, seals, and hopup rubber? What about the plastic components on the GBBRs themselves?

In one thread, there was mention of using "machine oil" in the trigger group and bolt assembly only. Is this another name for 3-in-1 mechanical oil? Is the use of this oil advisable?

Or should I just move all oiling over to silicon-based oils - super-lube and light-weight oils?

Thanks.
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Old April 9th, 2012, 20:04   #2
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http://www.airsoft-innovations.com/s...b-silicone-oil
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Old April 9th, 2012, 20:08   #3
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Polymer safe and rubber safe are not exactly the same thing. Polymer safe may still contain some petroleum distillates that are harmful to rubber o-rings.

I use o-ring grease on all my GBBR and some people use heavy-weight RC shock oil.

and using petroleum distillates on the trigger group may still contaminate the hop-up and o-rings if there is a roblem and the gas gets dumped all at once and gas is pushed in every nook and cranny carrying along the grease and/or oil everywhere.
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Old April 9th, 2012, 20:11   #4
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AI Tornado oil for the rifle's internals... The above mentioned silicon oil is good for the mags, but I'd really recommend a heavier weight oil for the bolt/trigger assembly. If I'm correct, then you're wondering about how to lube my buddy's old WE G36C right? He always used Tornado oil for the internals of his GBBRs. It's just about damn perfect for them. Hell, he's gone three games without cleaning/lubing his HK416 but it still functioned flawlessly since he used Tornado oil in all the right places.
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Old April 9th, 2012, 21:18   #5
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I recommend the lightest weight oil you can find on mags and pneumatic seals. Heavier oils can accumulate in the barrel which promotes a symptom I call gun smegma. Accumulated oil can foul your hop up and make it less consistent. Oily surfaces can pick up dust and make a black goo that you don't want in your barrel.

Any lubricant you use to condition your seals will end up getting blasted through your barrel which is why I suggest the lightest lubricant you can find. SUPER SPECIAL AI GBB OIL for teh win! It's 1.5wt.

For metal-metal contact, like slide rails and trigger pivots, silicone oil is crap. Silicone oil offers little film resistance and is very bad at staying in place. I suggest lithium grease available at many R/C hobby shops. Do not use anything like silicone differential grease. While that stuff is thick, it's still at preventing metal-metal contact and it's extremely viscous. It will act like an adhesive under high velocity applications. My preference is to mix some colloidal graphite powder (check Canadian Tire in auto section) with some lithium grease. I apply a light application and action everything manually about a dozen times, then disassemble and wipe it all off. It's messy stuff, but colloidal graphite burnishes into metal surfaces nicely providing slick dry lubrication. The little traces of lithium grease provide additional friction reduction. With little grease to hang onto stuff, I find I get less accumulation of wear particles or dirt.
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Old April 10th, 2012, 03:05   #6
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The only lubricants you will need to fully maintain a regular gas rifle (no fancy German parts) are silicon oil and Superlube. Get a lightweight silicon oil, preferably 10 weight or less. It is commonly available at hobby shops. Superlube is sold in most hardware stores and is a PTFE based lubricant and works extremely well in GBBs, as well as many other applications.
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Old April 10th, 2012, 07:32   #7
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Thanks, All - I'm still on the learning curve.

@ MadMax - I assume the lithium grease/colloidal graphite powder blend is for the major components (bolt, rails, guide rod). I assume they are not recommended for the trigger pack because of its assembly (and disassembly)? Oil for the trigger pack?

What ratio of grease to powder do you use? Is the lithium grease the same as Superlube (I've used the former, but not the latter)?

@ Rommen - Superlube is located in what section of Canadian Tire? (I'm currently assuming automotive.) Is there significant difference in viscosity between 10 wt & 1.5 wt silicon oil? Both are fairly light, but I assume the 10 wt will generate more "black mud" as it breaks down under use.

@ Raiden - Yes, I'm still working through the maintenance teardown - a little difficult without a manual, but I'm getting there. The trigger pack is partly disassembled and cataloged. I still haven't figured out where the hopup is, or how to adjust it - can't find any manuals online. Hell, I haven't been able to figure out how to pull the barrel assembly yet, though I think it has something to do with the textured cylinder ahead of the mag well.
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Old April 10th, 2012, 10:05   #8
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I've had amazing results on my WE open bolt PDW using lightweight silicone lube on the mags and seals, and synthetic grease on the slides.
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Old April 11th, 2012, 23:27   #9
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Yeah David had the manual all set and then his 3yr old nephew got his hands on it... I think he meant to tell you, but he was probably enjoying your conversation too much lol.

Quote:
Originally Posted by slink182 View Post
Thanks, All - I'm still on the learning curve.

@ MadMax - I assume the lithium grease/colloidal graphite powder blend is for the major components (bolt, rails, guide rod). I assume they are not recommended for the trigger pack because of its assembly (and disassembly)? Oil for the trigger pack?

What ratio of grease to powder do you use? Is the lithium grease the same as Superlube (I've used the former, but not the latter)?

@ Rommen - Superlube is located in what section of Canadian Tire? (I'm currently assuming automotive.) Is there significant difference in viscosity between 10 wt & 1.5 wt silicon oil? Both are fairly light, but I assume the 10 wt will generate more "black mud" as it breaks down under use.

@ Raiden - Yes, I'm still working through the maintenance teardown - a little difficult without a manual, but I'm getting there. The trigger pack is partly disassembled and cataloged. I still haven't figured out where the hopup is, or how to adjust it - can't find any manuals online. Hell, I haven't been able to figure out how to pull the barrel assembly yet, though I think it has something to do with the textured cylinder ahead of the mag well.
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Old April 12th, 2012, 02:57   #10
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I don't really understand what you mean Raiden. I'm going to continue answering Raiden's questions to me anyways.

Hard to say. I shoot in enough to make the grease jet black. I don't really sweat it as the powder smooshes in a reasonably durable coating pretty fast. I really use the grease to make the powder more manageable. As a loose powder, graphite is hard to control. It wanders around and falls off of surfaces you want to condition. Adding in some grease helps it to adhere to where you want it before you cycle them to burnish into the surfaces.

I do like to apply graphite paste to trigger parts too. I do wipe it all off after a heap of conditioning cycles still. Heavy grease coatings accumulate wear particles, sand, and make an abrasive paste that accelerates wear.
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Old April 27th, 2012, 20:32   #11
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Hi guys. While trying to decide between graphite + lithium or Ultra Slick Multipurpose Grease, I came across Ultra Slick Synthetic Brake Lubricant. Reading the product description, it seemed to be better than the multipurpose stuff while being easier to use than graphite. It's got a better temperature range (-54° C vs... as I recall, -28° C), specifically states that it's safe for rubber and plastic, and it contains synthetic oils as opposed to petroleum oils.

Upon squeezing some out, I immediately realized that it might be too thick - because I'm an idiot, I didn't consider how thick a lubricant meant for car brakes might be. I applied it to my bolt carrier anyway - I'm not sure if there's additional friction, but it's functioning well. I think it's a keeper.



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Old April 28th, 2012, 00:41   #12
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I'm running a similar silicone grease. Just don't put an inch thick coat on every part.
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Old April 28th, 2012, 00:58   #13
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@ D2D, I use the prematex ultra slick that comes in the 85g squeeze tube. Try to get the regular stuff if you can. The x tream sports one that is the one you will most likely find smells pretty strong. As Danke said, just use a very thin coating on the bolt and rails. Remember, the more you use, the more dirt will collect.
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Old April 30th, 2012, 01:01   #14
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For my GBB pistol, I'm using low weight silicone oil for most parts
http://www.airsoft-innovations.com/s...b-silicone-oil

And for the slide I use Team Associated silicone grease #6636
http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/6636/

Do you think this combination is ok?
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Old April 30th, 2012, 01:24   #15
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I use Aim Top silicone grease on all my gbbr and pistol moving parts a small amount will do the job and it lasts on the parts for quit awhile. I recently busted out the rubbing compound, and spent the day polishing the slide rails and outer barrel of my Glock and found I needed even less lube for the slide to cycle flawlessly, same with my WE M4 closed bolt polished the bolt and brass tube and it runs smoother with very little lube.
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