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2 LCT AKs - Neither will work out of the box.

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Old June 19th, 2013, 21:00   #1
Latvian291
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2 LCT AKs - Neither will work out of the box.

I bought two LCT AKs recently, both will not work.

1. AIMS - This gun would make a clicking sound out of the box with a fully charged battery (the same sound you'd get if a battery didn't have enough strength to pull the spring back). I held down the trigger and now it makes no sound what-so-ever. I changed the motor and released the anti-reversal latch. Battery is fully charged 9.6V. No response at all. Dead! Even when I remove the motor it will not spin when the trigger is pressed. Did I burn the wiring? There is no fuse in this gun.

2. AK-74. Same problem, but the motor still makes a clicking sound like the battery is almost dead. Same battery will power my other guns fine. The motor will spin when detached from the gear box. Anti-reversal latch released and a fully charged battery cannot cock and release the gun. It's locked up but new out of the box and I don't get why.

I know I will have to open these gearboxes up, but what should I be looking for? I don't understand why this happened with two guns.
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Last edited by Latvian291; June 19th, 2013 at 21:20..
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Old June 19th, 2013, 21:11   #2
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On your aims, you said the motor not turning with battery. Can you spin it by your fingers? If not, that could be the magnet fell out inside the motor and hit the coil. Just my guessing and it did happen on ics m4 motor.
If you said if burn wire, Did you smell any burn?
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Old June 19th, 2013, 21:16   #3
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Yeah thats odd for sure. Is the polarity reversed maybe?
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Old June 19th, 2013, 21:17   #4
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Originally Posted by N_Force View Post
On your aims, you said the motor not turning with battery. Can you spin it by your fingers? If not, that could be the magnet fell out inside the motor and hit the coil. Just my guessing and it did happen on ics m4 motor.
If you said if burn wire, Did you smell any burn?
No burning smell at all. Changing the motor didn't help.
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Old June 19th, 2013, 21:18   #5
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Yeah thats odd for sure. Is the polarity reversed maybe?
Unless the harness was wired wrong in the factory, no. How would I tell? Did you mean on the no response AIMS or the clicking AK-74?
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Old June 19th, 2013, 21:28   #6
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if you want me to have a look at them, send me a pm :3 Just.. not this weekend.

the click could be that the motor is trying to pull against the ARL and the click is the motor picking up the slack.. if that's the case, it would be wired backwards... if you can get to the connectors on the post and have a look to see where they're at.

i'm not sure if lct uses colored wires or not but red is positive, black is negative, it should be marked on the end bell of the motor, some have a positive etching by the post, some are painted red.

If they've physically soldered the wrong wires reversed in the harness... well you can try reversing them on the motor if they're not soldered on... that's the redneck way of testing.. if you have a multimeter you can trace it back easier. if you can get the gearbox out you can visually trace the wires.

There's also a couple other experienced AK techs in the ottawa area, check out the ottawa valley airsoft forum.
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Old June 19th, 2013, 21:56   #7
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One more try, before you move on to open the gear box.
If you have a working motor and full charge battery, then use electric multi meter to test the two wiring connections between battery end to motor end. Check there are not broken or grounded to body, even no visible opening or broken. if the battery compartment is in front of front grip, check the wiring pass through the join too. Good luck.
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Old June 19th, 2013, 21:57   #8
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Originally Posted by lurkingknight View Post
if you want me to have a look at them, send me a pm :3 Just.. not this weekend.

the click could be that the motor is trying to pull against the ARL and the click is the motor picking up the slack.. if that's the case, it would be wired backwards... if you can get to the connectors on the post and have a look to see where they're at.

i'm not sure if lct uses colored wires or not but red is positive, black is negative, it should be marked on the end bell of the motor, some have a positive etching by the post, some are painted red.

If they've physically soldered the wrong wires reversed in the harness... well you can try reversing them on the motor if they're not soldered on... that's the redneck way of testing.. if you have a multimeter you can trace it back easier. if you can get the gearbox out you can visually trace the wires.

There's also a couple other experienced AK techs in the ottawa area, check out the ottawa valley airsoft forum.
Good tip. The motor is not, as far as I know, spinning the wrong way, because the ARL needs to be released after attempting to fire the gun, on the AK-74 anyways. I am guessing something is just binding up in the gearbox, although I don't know what on a brand new gun. With the AIMS, it is just...dead... I don't know what the issue could be when there is no response at all and the motor wont even spin when not attached to the gearbox with a fully charged battery. Unless the connection has been cut somehow.

There are two wires on the AIMS that lead to nowhere. They just terminate in the gas tube and are shrink-wrapped together. Don't know what's up with that.
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Old June 19th, 2013, 21:59   #9
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One more try, before you move on to open the gear box.
If you have a working motor and full charge battery, then use electric meter to test the two wiring connections between battery end to motor end. Check there are not broken or grounded to body, even no visible opening or broken. if the battery compartment is in front of front grip, check the wiring pass through the join too. Good luck.
I do have a circuit tester. Will do that when I have a moment. Thanks for the help so far.
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Old June 19th, 2013, 22:49   #10
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Yeah i meant on the semi working one. Unless those wires you sed shrink wrapped together wer at some point attached to other wires.
Does it have those lil slip conectors in the heat shrink? It seems odd that not one but two guns are fizzled out of the box. For a china brand the LCT was solid and well built (the one i had at least) shame your having bad luck with them.
Lets look on the bright side. Externally. Damn sexy wouldnt ya say?
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Old June 19th, 2013, 23:05   #11
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LCT is made in Taiwan...

I havnt had any problems with the 5 i've seen on our team though the motors are a little weak
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Old June 19th, 2013, 23:25   #12
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Taiwan is china......isnt it...
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Old June 19th, 2013, 23:32   #13
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Rare, but the plug may have been installed backwards.

In the future, never hold down the trigger on an AEG that's locked up, it causes the battery to draw into an open circuit: Killing batteries, motors, wiring, trigger contacts etc... You may have a bunch of different problems on hand now. Take it to a gun doc.

To test the motor Remove it from the mechbox. Connect two wires directly from the battery to the motor contacts, if the wiring to the gun is soldered, don't worry, it will be in parallel to the battery. If it doesn't turn you have either a dead battery or dead motor. Try a new (known to work) battery. No turn? Motor.

Burnt wiring smells, if the gun smells like burning plastic/rubber/silicone, you probably fried something.

Open the mechbox and check that the trigger contacts aren't melted. It will be obvious if they have.
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Old June 20th, 2013, 00:47   #14
lurkingknight
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you'll be able to find out more if you pull the gearboxes, since the motor is mounted to the gearbox by a frame on v3s, you'll have to remove the whole gearbox, but you can definitely test for dead motor. The other thing that is possible is that the motor height is freakishly high and the motor just doesn't have enough power to turn over that much resistance.
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Old June 20th, 2013, 02:25   #15
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You can try using a multimeter to measure the voltage between the two motor connectors, when moter is disconnected, battery installed, and trigger pulled.
If there is no voltage or low voltage, probably something horrible happened to the wiring... If the voltage is the same as the voltage on the battery, the problem is probably on the motor, or gears.
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