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Old March 8th, 2008, 20:37   #31
Fox Hound
 
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I finaly purchased a PTW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I bought it from Moat240 and i'm just waiting on it. The gun was built buy airsoft extreme and it is a Gen 3 with steel barrel and a 490a motor. Not sure if i want to install the 3 planetary gears in the gearbox.

i got a question

why are some PTW's buffer tube so shiny? I'm assuming its for the newer models?

I can't find a lot of information on the motors, which ones are used in the max and 2004? 490a or 490b?
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Old March 8th, 2008, 21:40   #32
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If you have a 08 pre-build from Systema factory most likely it is a Type-A (High Cycle/High Output)... Type B was for the SCK 08 upgrade if you do not want to install those improved planetary gears, but wanted for the battery efficiency purpose only... I have both they seem to work fine so far...

Also, I was using the 480 before I have upgraded to the 490 (High Cycle/High Output)... so far so good....
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Old March 8th, 2008, 22:33   #33
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Has anyone else had the issue of the bolt-catch release spring?

It looks to me the spring has "stopped" working and does not rebound the release into the ready position as it stays depressed and engages the electronic switch, causing the gun not to fire.
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Old March 8th, 2008, 23:12   #34
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WOUUUUU GOT my BABY!!!

1 more to come for jay!!
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Old March 9th, 2008, 01:08   #35
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WOUUUUU GOT my BABY!!!

1 more to come for jay!!

hehe, you'll enjoy it after you get used to the increase in weight compared to an AEG.
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Old March 9th, 2008, 01:12   #36
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Has anyone else had the issue of the bolt-catch release spring?

It looks to me the spring has "stopped" working and does not rebound the release into the ready position as it stays depressed and engages the electronic switch, causing the gun not to fire.
Are you saying that when you insert a fresh mag, that the bolt release does not automatically close? This is a quirk of the system. Just like the real AR, you have to manually tap it to close it and make the gun ready to fire.

The spring for the bolt release is barely strong enough to close the bolt, and, in certain situations like gun orientation or moving with it slung, it can open up on you. A good practice is to always observe it's position, and give it a tap if needed.
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Old March 9th, 2008, 01:19   #37
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Are you saying that when you insert a fresh mag, that the bolt release does not automatically close? This is a quirk of the system. Just like the real AR, you have to manually tap it to close it and make the gun ready to fire.

The spring for the bolt release is barely strong enough to close the bolt, and, in certain situations like gun orientation or moving with it slung, it can open up on you. A good practice is to always observe it's position, and give it a tap if needed.
No, the mag has already be inserted, bolt-catch release engaged, fire, fire, fire, pause, walk around to find new fire position, see target, engage target, nothing, "oh crap!", tap, tap, tap, tap bolt-catch release, fire, fire, fire. (doubt starts to kick in if the next volley of shots will fire off, not good)

There were a couple of times, i just changed mags.

But you can say the details of each incident are not completely clear due to "stress" of the situation each time.
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Old March 9th, 2008, 01:23   #38
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Sounds like you have experienced the bolt catch quirk of the PTW.

Some inserted small shims of foil or paper under the bolt release spring to make it effectively "stronger" to keep the bolt more naturally in a closed position. But by doing so, you also run the risk of dry-firing if you upset the balance in spring strengths between the bolt catch and the mag follower.

I've learned to live with it, and as a matter of habit, always give the bolt catch a tap if the gun has been slung or unfired for awhile.

http://www.systema-europe.com/Forum/...&KW=bolt+catch
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Last edited by mcguyver; March 9th, 2008 at 01:27..
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Old March 10th, 2008, 00:09   #39
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anyone know whats up with the shiny buffer tube?
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Old March 10th, 2008, 00:20   #40
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anyone know whats up with the shiny buffer tube?
If you don't want it I'll swap you for a black one.
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Old March 10th, 2008, 00:30   #41
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I had an issue with my factory PTW a while back with the wires connected to the EL-003, they snapped over time for some reason.

Played fine for the first few months I had it, one day stops working, take it apart and find the wires half cut. Replaced the wires, and now it's fine. Wonder how that happened?
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Old March 10th, 2008, 00:41   #42
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anyone know whats up with the shiny buffer tube?
"shiney" stock tubes is one characteristic that denotes the PTW in question is a MAX variant.
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Old March 10th, 2008, 00:48   #43
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oooh i see. Well airborn i dont have a shiny stock tube sorry, mines a Gen 3.

The guy i bought it from put a Steel barrel in it and changed the motor to 490a. Its just almost a MAX, all it needs is planetary gears. Its going to eat me up inside why i didn't buy a max. Im just debating if i should swap out the zinc gears and install the steel planetary gears in.

i havent gotten it yet, and you can tell im somewhat excited. in a scale of 10 how difficult is it to change? By looking at the gearbox, it does look rather complicated. But i'm a very well rounded person. I work with electronics so i hope this could be an easy task.
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Old March 11th, 2008, 01:27   #44
swatt13
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Originally Posted by WarHawk109 View Post
I had an issue with my factory PTW a while back with the wires connected to the EL-003, they snapped over time for some reason.

Played fine for the first few months I had it, one day stops working, take it apart and find the wires half cut. Replaced the wires, and now it's fine. Wonder how that happened?
seen this happen before, your buffer tube & lock ring were not secured, the gun was prolly picked up by the stock and which would have rotated and sheared the wires.
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Old April 17th, 2008, 18:32   #45
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Blackthorne and I have been working on mine, which is a challenge kit that Crash put together. He did a good job, but there are a couple of important points.

1) Soldering the motor leads. Don't know if this is recommended but they were loose. We soldered them to the terminals. Be careful if you do this that you feed the wire through the terminal hole from the inside towards the outside or the grip will be too tight to fit.

2) The rotor adjust screw, which is no longer needed, tightens in the same direction as the motor runs. Silly thing, at least on mine, self tightens and then locks!?!! LOL. Okay, figured that out AFTER we got the gun apart. Don't tighten this screw at all and locktight it in place, loose so it does not self tighten and lock your motor and blow your fuse (like mine).

Perhaps these are self-evident issues with challenge kits, I dunno, but it hung me and Blackthorne up for an hour or so until he (not me) figured it out...
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