July 11th, 2009, 23:27 | #16 | |
Hmm, dont think so, brand new trigger contacts.
Also, on the G36, the trigger contacts arn't touched by the lower. When i slide on the lower, nothing touch the trigger contacts at all... I just took a few photos, ill upload them shortly
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July 12th, 2009, 00:06 | #17 |
aka SNK or Shaniqua
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this happens on JG G36s all the time. I had it happen on 2 I worked on.
I replaced the wiring harness because the wires were getting pinched by the grip. You couldn't tell from outside but the actual wires were broken or suffering metal fatigue inside the insulation. I also shaved some plastic away from behind the trigger because I found when you put in the metal pin that holds the mechbox in, sometimes it holds it at the wrong angle and the trigger doesn't go far back enough to get the trigger assembly to work. It also sounds like your trigger assembly is worn out, that's happened on my first JG G36. I replaced that too. The piece of plastic that slides forward to engage the contacts kept slipping/popping off the trigger lever.
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SHÖCK Last edited by SHÖCK; July 12th, 2009 at 00:08.. |
July 12th, 2009, 00:07 | #18 | |
PICS!
First picture: Mechbox out of the lower reciver, when i pull the trigger, the motor spins fine Second picture: As i start to slide the mechbox into the lower while still holding the trigger, the motor keeps spinning Third picture: As the mechbox gets about 80% into the lower, the motor suddenly stops, even though none of the wiring or contacts are touched by anything This is so wierd...
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July 12th, 2009, 00:09 | #19 | ||
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July 12th, 2009, 00:16 | #20 |
ok...assuming you have confirmed that moving none of the external wires (yes I know they are not touched by anything...still best to confirm this) breaks the electrical connection could it be that when the lower and fire selector switch engages that the trigger contacts are disengaged mechanically?
Does adjusting the selector switch affect the issue? Give it a try. Test: leave lower off and move the fire selector interface on the mechbox Test2: engage the lower at 80% (as pictured) and adjust the switch..Any effect? The only other thing I can think of is that the lower is squeezing the mechbox and affecting the electrical contacts in the trigger switch assembly. Test: squeeze the mechbox and try and cause the break. (Doubt this) |
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July 12th, 2009, 00:21 | #21 | |
Already tried ajusting the selector, nothing....
Squeeze the mechbox? im not exactly sure what your trying to say, but i tried what i think you mean, no change.
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July 12th, 2009, 00:22 | #22 |
aka SNK or Shaniqua
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hold your battery at step 3 (http://i518.photobucket.com/albums/u...g?t=1247367992) and see if it's getting hot, if it is, there is a short somewhere (no matter how improbable it might seem). I had a short once where the two wires go into the trigger assembly were and the motor didn't respond but the battery and wiring got hot.
It's not so wierd to me to see this issue since I have seen it happen on 2 JG G36s. It is quite a strange one though but it does happen. I can only tell you on both cases, I took apart the mechboxes for upgrades, put them back together with different wiring harnesses and trigger assemblies (I had that same low resistance set you seem to have on my JG G36 but I moved it to a CA and put in a stock wiring harness and trigger assembly back into the JG). Then all my guns worked. The only logical things are that something is breaking continuity at picture 3. It could be the fire selector gears squeezing the body or causing some sort of wierd short or ground. It could be that the trigger is not the right position since I know you have to push it forward slightly to get it into the lower.
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SHÖCK Last edited by SHÖCK; July 12th, 2009 at 00:27.. |
July 12th, 2009, 00:25 | #23 | |
Already checked for a short, and the battery is staying very cold...
Unfortunatly, i can't but the stock wiring assembly back in, as it is gone >.>
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July 12th, 2009, 00:28 | #24 |
aka SNK or Shaniqua
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Take the fire selector gear assembly out of the lower, that should be everything that is metal inside the lower grip.
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SHÖCK |
July 12th, 2009, 00:31 | #25 | |
I already took the small rod that connects the two sides of the fire selector out.
How do i remove the two gears? is there a screw somewhere? or do i just pry them out?
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July 12th, 2009, 00:48 | #26 | |
Okay, so i just took out the fire-selector half gear, so there is nothing metal inside the lower reciver.
Didn't change anything >.> Still cuts out when the mechbox is about 90% into the lower reciver
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July 12th, 2009, 01:32 | #27 | |
UPDATE:
Well... this really makes no sense remotly to me... but...gah! so, at this point i have removed the selector half gears from inside of the lower reciver. When i place the mechbox back in (While still holding the trigger) the motor keeps spinning. I can get the mechbox all the way, back seated well inter the reciver. But! when i stop firing, i cant get it to fire again untill i take the mechbox back out of the lower.... my brain hurt >.>
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July 12th, 2009, 02:07 | #28 |
Have you taken the trigger unit out and inspected it?
I have seen problems before where one of the screws compressed part of the trigger pushing it in slightly. This is the one screw that holds side plate on , if the screw is over tightened it will push on the trigger housing. When the mech box is out of the gun it works fine but when its assembled it fails to function. |
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July 12th, 2009, 02:09 | #29 | |
Yeap, checked all the trigger contacts.
Its strange, i installed a whole new wiring/switch assembly. Worked fine for about a week, now this >.> Ill go chack that screw on the side plate now...
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July 12th, 2009, 02:15 | #30 | |
Tried loosening, adusting, and completly removing the side plate. Didn't make a differance
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