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Big problems v2 gearbox, need help!

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Old March 14th, 2016, 20:49   #16
chaz
 
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Lonex POM piston head
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Old March 14th, 2016, 21:32   #17
lurkingknight
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element pistons use metal that is softer than plastic. lol. That rack might have well been made of cheese.
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Old March 15th, 2016, 18:33   #18
Grevn
 
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ok i went on a shopping spree today and bought everrything i needed to fix it and a little bit more haha

so i went shs full steel rack /w 14teeths and rest dream army. Ive heard that those give really good compression if used togehter. I also did a total reshim and shimed it to the motor pinion, i gave the bevel gear about 1/2mm play when the motor is in and used threadlock on the motor adjustment screw. I also threadlocked the piston head.

havent adjusted aoe yet, have to find some decent rubber or somthing to do it with.

them upgradeparts:

this is the aoe right now, does it need fixing?

and then i decided to instal a mosfet because I wanted to

i will test all this tomorrow (clock is about 22:30 here in sweden and i work tomorrow) but before i do that, should i put silicon oil on all the o-rings? should i grease up the gears a little bit?

and btw THANKS ALOT for allt he help you guys already have given me, it really helped a noob alot! and especially thanks for the tip about the shs piston, that thing feels solid as a beast compared to the shitey element that broke, and they were the same price >.>
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Old March 15th, 2016, 18:57   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeroroaster View Post
If you're using an SHS piston, or any other really, also check that it travels freely inside the mechbox without binding when it's back fully. I've had a couple where they go together just fine but once firing they bind up on the guide rails and create all sorts of goofy stuff in the gearbox. May not be the cause of what happened here, but something to be absolutely sure of.
I have a feeling that OP was right all along and the piston head loosened itself and started to smack the cylinder when it was being drawn back in the gear cycle. If what lurkingknight says is true and evidence suggests it is, then the Element parts started to break under friction and the threads started to break after so many shots.

Also, if you're looking for some good rubber, some plumber o-rings will do just fine. Try looking for sorbo pads online if you're really adamant on paying for the extra quality, but anything from local home hardware stores usually have what you need.
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Old March 15th, 2016, 18:58   #20
Grevn
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeroroaster View Post
If you're using an SHS piston, or any other really, also check that it travels freely inside the mechbox without binding when it's back fully. I've had a couple where they go together just fine but once firing they bind up on the guide rails and create all sorts of goofy stuff in the gearbox. May not be the cause of what happened here, but something to be absolutely sure of.
Yeah thanks for the reminder! Will do that before putting together!
I got teflon Grease for the gears and silicon oil, am i supposed to put a little bit on the o-rings?
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Old March 15th, 2016, 19:03   #21
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Originally Posted by RainyEyes View Post
I have a feeling that OP was right all along and the piston head loosened itself and started to smack the cylinder when it was being drawn back in the gear cycle. If what lurkingknight says is true and evidence suggests it is, then the Element parts started to break under friction and the threads started to break after so many shots.

Also, if you're looking for some good rubber, some plumber o-rings will do just fine. Try looking for sorbo pads online if you're really adamant on paying for the extra quality, but anything from local home hardware stores usually have what you need.
Ok thanks alot, will check if i van get ahold of some sorbopads here in sweden If not, then orings it is. If i go with orings, do i just put one on there, or do i put several with different diameters?
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Old March 15th, 2016, 19:12   #22
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About the aoe this is what it looks like without moding

Would this be a proper aoe?
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Old March 15th, 2016, 19:12   #23
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Originally Posted by Grevn View Post
Ok thanks alot, will check if i van get ahold of some sorbopads here in sweden If not, then orings it is. If i go with orings, do i just put one on there, or do i put several with different diameters?
Just one: https://youtu.be/sI7agUdUsz4?t=9m3s

Follow that guide, that usually won't lead you wrong. Unfortunately over time the o-ring will compress over time so try to account for 1-2mm of over-correction.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Grevn View Post
About the aoe this is what it looks like without moding

Would this be a proper aoe?

That looks MUCH better, but a few degrees more would be optimal. You're at about 80 degrees, try to aim for 90-95 degrees. You need to put the spring in to account for compression.

Last edited by RainyEyes; March 15th, 2016 at 19:15..
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Old March 15th, 2016, 19:38   #24
Grevn
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RainyEyes View Post
Just one: https://youtu.be/sI7agUdUsz4?t=9m3s

Follow that guide, that usually won't lead you wrong. Unfortunately over time the o-ring will compress over time so try to account for 1-2mm of over-correction.




That looks MUCH better, but a few degrees more would be optimal. You're at about 80 degrees, try to aim for 90-95 degrees. You need to put the spring in to account for compression.
Ok sweet, thanks alot, will buy o-rings and fix tomorrow! 😁
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Old March 15th, 2016, 19:42   #25
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Originally Posted by Zeroroaster View Post
I'm thinking plumber o-rings are more like flat faucet washers. I used a hydraulic equivalent to a sorbo pad (flat rubber for compression fittings). Doesn't compress as much and holds the piston firmly so the teeth are always in the right place.

Yes, grease the o-rings. A silicone or synthetic based grease won't attack the o-rings and will keep them lubed a long, long time. I work in the heavy equipment industry so we have access to all kinds of fun stuff. I've tried different kinds in different builds and even pulled the material safety data sheets to check for reactivity to o-rings, etc. I've had a fair bit of success with SuperLube. Not sure if that's a thing in Sweden.

As an added bonus, I've upgraded the piston o-ring in a gun or two to Viton. Fantastic material for this application, but overkill really. hehehe.

Anyhow, yes, grease the o-rings.
Ok sweet thanks!

What i have home is silicon oil and teflon grease, what is the best out of that for o-rings? I have no Idea If teflon Grease is synthetic or not hehe.
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Old March 15th, 2016, 20:27   #26
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Originally Posted by Grevn View Post
Ok sweet thanks!

What i have home is silicon oil and teflon grease, what is the best out of that for o-rings? I have no Idea If teflon Grease is synthetic or not hehe.
Typically silicone oil is best for the o-rings but not great for metal on metal-contact. Depending on the viscocity it will just get spread all around the gearbox... except the parts you want covered...
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Old March 15th, 2016, 20:36   #27
Grevn
 
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Oh ok, just found out what silicone Grease is to, got a completly different name in swedish "armaturfett" instead of silikonfett that Woolf be the logical translation, Will probably pick up a Tube of that too tomorrow.

Then i Will put teflon grease on the gears and silicon Grease on the o-rings and a little bearing oil in the bearings ��
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Old March 15th, 2016, 20:38   #28
ThunderCactus
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Your unmodded AOE is fine, its not actually that critical to get it 100% perfect as the gear tooth profile is convolute, not flat.
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Old March 16th, 2016, 18:57   #29
Grevn
 
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ok so i have fixed everything and put it together and my chronogragh arrived today

it shoots 128-132 m/s with .20
and 108.5-110 ,/s with .28
i have a m130 spring installed, would this suggest that i have good compression in the gun?

And thanks alot guys for the help and guidance!

a wierd thing though is that it doesnt want to ffed from my highcap anymore (that came with the gun), but it feeds prefectly with my ca midcaps(wich is the only ones i use anyway) ^^
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Old March 16th, 2016, 19:14   #30
RainyEyes
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grevn View Post
ok so i have fixed everything and put it together and my chronogragh arrived today

it shoots 128-132 m/s with .20
and 108.5-110 ,/s with .28
i have a m130 spring installed, would this suggest that i have good compression in the gun?

And thanks alot guys for the help and guidance!

a wierd thing though is that it doesnt want to ffed from my highcap anymore (that came with the gun), but it feeds prefectly with my ca midcaps(wich is the only ones i use anyway) ^^
Here is how you check compression: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MFnUjxdiXuU

I would not advise you disassemble to check again because those numbers look normal to me. Just something for later when you open it again for maintenance or something.
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