WE SCAR does not fire in semi-auto mode

[Dire_Wolf]

when you took out the selector switch, did you take both arms off? if the switch was put back in the wrong way, or upside down, then that might explain the issues. everything else there looks fine to me, but the selector seems odd.... you could try taking one of the switch arms off, then rotating 180 if possible and see if it works that way?

[Cujo101]

it wont go to safe until u have a "round chambered" or the gun is hot ... meaning ready to fire ... m4 are the same way

[Ross]

Originally Posted by Cujo101

it wont go to safe until u have a "round chambered" or the gun is hot ... meaning ready to fire ... m4 are the same way

that doesn't make sense to me. My scar goes into safe no problem.

[Cujo101]

thats how my pdw works .. just like the real steal .. but im pretty sure its the same for the scar ... i had one but i cant remember for sure ... i didnt really game it, then i sold it

[coach]

Don't force the selector to safe or auto from semi unless you have cocked the bolt back. If you force it, you will break it.

There's a huge WE gas guns maintenance and help thread where it's explained.

[Dire_Wolf]

ok, took some photos, definitely looks like your selector switch rod is either reversed side to side (can't tell from above, on either my photos or yours) or rotated 180 degrees and the arms themselves are installed in the wrong orientation. when in safe, you should see the middle part of the selector as a kind of flat top, with a little bump in the middle , towards the back. this means the rounded part of it is on the bottom and preventing the trigger from physically moving. my pic shows the bump.

Originally Posted by coachster

Don't force the selector to safe or auto from semi unless you have cocked the bolt back. If you force it, you will break it.

There's a huge WE gas guns maintenance and help thread where it's explained.

I've looked at that thread myself, and the biggest problem? finding useful information in any sort of reasonable time frame. I've looked at it for hours and still not read all of it, with all the links given... It really needs to be consolidated.

In regards to the selector being forced, the only thing it should ever be in contact with is the full-auto sear and the trigger. It never touches the hammer or the bolt. From direct testing 5 minutes ago, when the safety is on, unless the hammer was cocked prior to putting the trigger group in safety, do NOT rack the bolt or force the hammer back. The trigger has to move back a bit to re-latch the hammer, and with the selector physically preventing this, something is going to give, and it will likely be either the hammer or the front of the trigger. So switch to semi, rack the bolt or cock the hammer, then back to safety, no more issues.

[Riko]

is it important to grease the sear like on that picture?? ^


I HAD a problem with firing, my trigger wont go back, so I had to manually push it forward to fire.
But than I reinstalled my original stock hammer, and the problem was solved.


However, it with my 2 new magazines, I see that the hammer is catched by the sear in full auto.
So I have to return to semi, than to auto and than I can fire.
With my original mag I do not have this problem.

I find this strange since the magazine has nothing to do with the hammer-sear operation.
So who does that happen with new mags?

[Dire_Wolf]

that much grease isn't really necessary, and I haven't gotten around to cleaning it off and using some teflon spray, silicone oil or something else... the grease is basically the factory slop they stick in there, previous owners didn't do anything with it either.

trigger not going back is the hammer is catching too strongly on the disconnector (if it's a semi-auto issue) or the front of the trigger isn't shaped right for the different hammer, or possibly the trigger springs being a bit too weak. you can fix it either by wearing down the disconnector a bit , easiest way is to file the hammer/disconnector a bit, smoothing down the metal if it's rough, or angling it very slightly to ease the separation.

Some posts have mentioned running the gun in full-auto for 10 mags or so to wear down the parts... but the problem with that is the disconnector and the hammer ledge that we want to wear down aren't supposed to be used in full auto. The small bump on the selector that shows when the gun is in safe, and is pointed DOWN when in full auto, pushes into the space between the trigger arm's walls, pulling the disconnector back out of the way. Without engaging every shot, these two surfaces will NOT be worn down by automatic fire.

In your case, i think the disconnector has too much material, so instead of slipping by the hammer, it's catching anyways... but that doesn't make a lot of sense if the mags change how it works... perhaps the firing pin isn't hitting the valve squarely, and the hammer isn't going far enough forward? pictures would help, one with old mag, one with new... whole lower frame off the gun, and one with hammer forward, one with hammer back

[Riko]

yeah its strange about the mags huh

Is it correct that the harder the kick, the bigger the "change" the sear releases the hammer? (talking about full auto mode of course)
Because I found out that when pointing the gun upwards, cocking it, than releasing it, sometimes you cant pull the trigger
But when pointing the gun down, (there is more speed to the bolt when it returns to its position) the kick is feelable harder, and I always can pull the trigger in auto mode...
(with my older mag it doesnt make a diference, I can always pull the trigger after cocking)

So my only conclusion would be that somehow with the new mags, there isnt enough "kick" so that the sear moves to release the hammer in full auto....
So I gas ejection-matter
Does that make sence?

[Ross]

Originally Posted by coachster

Don't force the selector to safe or auto from semi unless you have cocked the bolt back. If you force it, you will break it.

There's a huge WE gas guns maintenance and help thread where it's explained.

Really? My selector switch works great without cocking it. I really didn't think that was necessary.

[Riko]

Originally Posted by coachster

Don't force the selector to safe or auto from semi unless you have cocked the bolt back. If you force it, you will break it.

There's a huge WE gas guns maintenance and help thread where it's explained.

Thats bull, you can go to safe anytime indeed


Just dont cock the gun while on safe! thats the only thing you have to remember!

[Ross]

ok good. that's what I thought

[AngelusNex]

Originally Posted by coachster

Don't force the selector to safe or auto from semi unless you have cocked the bolt back. If you force it, you will break it.

There's a huge WE gas guns maintenance and help thread where it's explained.

M4/M16 pattern rifles. NOT scar