KSC Glock 18C Cycle Problem...

[MasterChiefLP]

Ok so when i shoot semi auto it's fine for maybe about 6-7 shots then the nozzle does not return back to it's sitting position and gas starts to leak due to this problem, full auto does not even work because of this. I dont think it's a mag issue and i have used so much silicon oil already...The pison movies like the slides are sticky almost...im not sure what to do...

[MasterChiefLP]

Alright so i found out that the loading nozzle pushes forwards like it's supposed to but then doesn't slide all the way back most of the time resulting in massive gas leakage in semi and full auto modes. The odd time i can get half a mag through without a problem...

[voorhees -FWA-]

The Glock 18c is a very finicky pistol. In optimal conditions you’re supposed to be able to fire a full magazine in full auto with no problems… however, I’ve never been able to do this. The most I can fire on full auto is 20. This has nothing to do with your post – I just had to bitch lol.
The reason for your gas leak is that your pistol when it slides back from the shot to go back into battery for the next round, your blow back chamber is binding inside the slide of the pistol. This could be due to poor lubrication, damaged or weak cylinder springs, or it’s just that that gas chamber cylinder is too new; meaning whether it’s lubed it’ll still bind due to friction inside the slide.
Easy fix – silicone spray the shit out of the outside of the gas chamber cylinder and the slide. Keep your magazine out and rack the slide back and forth until the cylinder slides freely.
Not an easy fix – take the slide off, take the gas chamber cylinder out and polish the areas in the slide where the cylinder slides. Use 1000G – 1500G sand paper, remove all the paint and make sure it’s shiny. Once that’s done, get a polishing compound and polish the newly sanded area. Inspect the 2 cylinder springs making sure they’re not kinked or deformed, inspect the gas chamber cylinder to ensure that the cylinder is not mal-formed and smooth – take note of this on the slide on the side of the cylinder that they’re even and smooth, put the unit back into the slide, and with your fingers pull the gas chamber cylinder into battery and let it go a few times to make sure it’s not binding and moving freely.
If it continues to dump the gas and not go back into battery, use your thumb and push the slide forward. This will battery the pistol and stops your gas from venting.
I hope this helps! Cheers!

[MasterChiefLP]

Alright this does help alot, i just need the required tools to take that little tiny hex screw out from under the rear sights, then i'll remove the blow back chamber and sand it and silicon the hell out of it and hopefully that will do the trick, i also bought new loading nozzle springs and a rocket valve (metal) instead of plastic. Maybe this will help as well...

[voorhees -FWA-]

Yes, the entire process is a real pain in the ass! There’s a video on youtube on taking the chamber block apart, it’s not a good video, but it does help.
The size of allan key you require is a 0.7. If you don’t have one on hand you can purchase a precision set from Canadian Tire, it’s a Mastercraft set with slot, hex, allan, and Phillips for about $20.
Good luck and make sure you secure your work area and do not tear down on a carpet, as there are small springs, selector ball, and various other pieces that may fly out taking the chamber block out of the slide. Slow and steady wins this race…

[MasterChiefLP]

Yeah i dont want to lose any small springs and such and yes, i have seen that video as it is very informative. Once i purchase the tools i need im sure i can get this to work no problem. I sprayed the crap out of it just not and i maybe got about 8 shots off before the muzzle binded and did not return to the sitting positon.