Upgraded Kraken, hot battery, what's up?

[Troy T. Moore]

I put in an Element bearing piston head, Element V3 bearing spring guide, 6mm bearings, Systema polycarb piston, Sorbo pad (removed wretched rubber from stock cylinder head first), Element AK nozzle and Modify s110 spring.

Of course the nice thing about the V3 mechbox is that it can be tested before reassembling the whole AEG. Attached a 8.4V 1400ma mini...zzz*stop*. I had tried this on semi auto. Took off motor mount rotated bottom gear until spring decompressed, reassembled. Put it on auto, pulled trigger zzz *pap* *pap* *pap* *pap*. Right on I figure and assemble the AEG.

Next day I want to test out with BBs. Put in battery zzz*stop*. Annoying, yes? Took off motor mount manually turn gear decompress spring. Put in 9.6V 1100ma mini, set to auto....zzz *pap* *pap* *pap*.... I do a few bursts, adjust the hop a few more bursts, then one of the pauses beween bursts yields the annoying zzz*stop* I take the battery out and it is warm, quite warm. I remove the handle and the motor is warm too, but not as warm as the battery. Removed motor mount, decompressed spring and put gun away in closet...

I think it is the motor that is the problem. Not enough torque for the new setup although with all the bearings I thought it would be OK. If it is the motor I was thinking TMEG1000 motor for more torque and more speed than the stock Kraken motor.

Your thoughts?

[Skladfin]

There are a few possibilities for this, the one I would guess is that your shimming is too tight.

Either that or your motor is too weak, but with an M110 spring, I would say it's your shimming.

In any case what's happening is that your motor is struggling to pull the spring back, so it's drawing more and more current from the motor. You better have a fuse in there lol...

[Styrak]

Bring it over when you come today Troy.

[Styrak]

Problem fixed, shimming was too tight.

[Troy T. Moore]

Yes, the shimming ops:

Thank you for the help and the instructional lesson on mechbox shimming Styrak.