Several gearbox questions

[Hauptmann Dosman]

I have a G&P M4 that was shooting around 400fps with .2's and I wanted to downgrade the spring. Thus I got a new spring, took the M4 apart, opened the gearbox, clean, lubed and installed the new spring.
This is where I ran into trouble. (see image of sector gear) I don't know how to set the proper timing, and all the videos on mechbox.com how normal sector gears. This then causes me to also think, how is this sector gear affecting the performance.

I also have another question about the motor alignment, but I am going to wait until I figure the sector gear out and can reassemble every up until that part.

[The Saint]

Gear timing is a myth. The way you have it in the picture is just fine.

[Skladfin]

Originally Posted by The Saint

Gear timing is a myth. The way you have it in the picture is just fine.

yup, true

[AngelusNex]

You may have shimmed it wrong when you re-assembled it or you could just have the motor height off.. we need to know exactly what does it do when you try to shoot?

[BORDENSNIPER]

lol dont worry avout timing cause it doesn exist.

as long as ur cam doesn not go undet the tappet plate back that gets engaged by the gear cam ur fine (if its under it its very hard to put the mechbox together since ure gonna need to push the nozzle while u do...

the way u ahve it is fine. dont worry about it.

[m102404]

As said...it's fine just like in the pic.

After reshimming, change the motor, grip, mechbox or gear set...you should reset your motor height (or at least check it).

Once the mechbox is all done up, install the grip. Route the wires and hook up the motor. The motor should be "springy" up and down. If it's wedged tight in there...reroute the wires again. Install the grip cap/heatsink.

There's a screw in the middle of the grip cap. Tighten it pretty much as far in (CW) as possible...don't reef on it, just until you feel resistance and it won't go anymore.

Then back it off about 2 turns. Try one shot in semi. If it doesn't shoot...back it off another turn. Try one shot in semi. Repeat until it shoots...but it probably won't sound very good...

Fine tune in or out by half turns...shot...etc... until you get the "deadest"/quietest shot. Fine tune by quarter turns...same procedure...

When you've got it...that's the new setup for that mechbox, gears, grip and motor.

If you're completely done and want to lock that setting in place...you can put a drop of loctite (blue temporary stuff) or a little bit of nailpolish on the threads of that adjustment screw to hold it in place....but I almost never do that, I just check it if the "sound" changes.

[Hauptmann Dosman]

Thanks for the help with that problem guys, but now I run into another problem.
When I then install the chamber, tappet plate, etc into the box and replace the spring on the tappet it causes it to sit like picture 1. Now I can press the nozzle when putting everything back together so that the tappet sits like pic 2. However this causes the nozzle to not be in the full forward position(pic 3), and I believe that this may have caused some feed/jamming issues that I had before.
So my question is, am I wrong about the tappet/nozzle position causing me issues, or would turning the sector gear so that everything rests properly (tappet full forward) be better?

[m102404]

Turn the sector gear until the "nub" (yours has a sector chip built in...so it looks larger) sits further clockwise from where it is not. Anywhere in front of the tappet fin is fine (but obviously not so little that it's blocking the fin...like it is now...or so much that the sector gear teeth are engaged with the piston teeth).

NOTE: if you want to turn it CW from where it is...you'll need to hold back the anti-reversal latch...since what you're doing is manually reversing the gears...

No matter where in the 2-5 o'clock position the nub is...after the first shot the sector gear will set itself into it's "normal" position.

With the fin over the nub...it would have been really hard to close up the mechbox....

[The Saint]

You're worrying about nothing. Nozzles cycle, it doesn't matter what position of travel it is in when you close the box, provided it doesn't interfere with box closure. And judging by the state of your tappet and sector chip, there's no reason to believe any misfeed or jam issue is the result of your tappet movement/travel.

[Hauptmann Dosman]

Hey thanks again guys. I figure that it is best to take my time and ask you guys then have some failure.

[Hauptmann Dosman]

Ok now that I have everything back together, and have had the chance to put a few rounds through it, another problem has come up.

(using .2's) On auto everything shoots fine, however on semi every few shots will be a double feed.
(using .25's) I am luck if it will fire 5 rounds before jamming up in the hopup unit. It appears that 2 bb's are getting jammed and not allowing the nozzel to move forward. (had problems with .25's for a while)

Now I have searched around and came across this thread Double Feed/Mag Dumping Issue - Need Nozzle Data - Airsoft Canada . This got me thinking, so I checked in the magwell and indeed the nozzel is barely visable in the hop up unit after firing on semi. After firing on auto, it is visable to a varying degree.

My question: Would my sector gear **(see previous pics) be causing the tappet plate to be in a half cocked postion after shooting semi, thus keeping the nozzel from returning forward after the shot, thus allowing possibly more then one bb to be loaded?

** as a side note, does anyone know why G&P sector gears have a large tappet plate interaction pin

[ROAR]

Your sector gear shouldnt be a problem i would look at if your hopup is cranked up to high that its jamming on the hopup. if you used the same parts that you used before and only changed the spring you shouldnt be having any issues with feeding so not sure about that one. If you changed your nozzle you may have put a shorter one on by accident.