G&P Battery Buttstock

[DarkAngel]

I bought a G&P Collapsible Battery Buttstock with a 9.6 to replace my existing 8.4 in a fullstock. Im using a Guarder C8 Metal Receiver and after reading the instructions, they want me to cut 3cm off my lower receiver. Now after studying this closely (cause i REALLY hate the idea of cutting something off my receiver) I have thought about taking a dremmel to the wire hole at the end (Since you have to do that anyways) and drilling a hole into the receiver pipe at the end of the receiver instead of having the wire sit between the receiver pipe and the stock pipe. Ive also found these Dean Connectors to be obnoxious as hell, since they do not clip, they keep falling out with the slightest of movement such as collapsing or extending the stock (the latter more than the first).

Instructions say
Cut 3 cm off the pipe
Pull tamya small batt connectors off rear
attach long Deans male plug + wire to existing, and dremmel a notch in the back of the receiver, and grind flat the bottom of the receiver pipe.



My Idea
Get a 3 cm longer bolt (so i dont have to cut it)
instead of feeding the wires between the receiver pipe and stock pipe, i want to cut a small hole in the bottom of the receiver pipe and feed the wires through the whole stock pipe, instead of just halfway.

(Red sections is where i wanna cut)



Obnoxious problems ive found soo far
1) Deans Connectors, dont hold together, falls off easy.
2) the wires for the mini plug are RIGHT at the end of the gearbox, making any kind of soldering effort + wiring work almost impossible, since theres no space to fit through the gaps.

Im fairly sure, this would make it work, If someone can find a reason why doing this is a bad idea, please tell me, since i plan to go ahead with this tommorow morning. If my idea is sound, i will take before and after pics, and write a comprehesive pictoral guide about how i had modified my stock so that others buying/using this product will have an easier idea how to modify it.

[JoeyJackhammer]

true Deans connectors are musch better for sticking together. Also, I'd like to find a coiled wire ( a la phone cord) so the wires don't get bunched up in the tube, making extending/retracting the stock easier.

[DarkAngel]

The instructions say to coil the wire comming from the gearbox. Thats whats supposed to keep it from bunching.
Still, im trying to figure out why they want people to cut 3 cm off the receiver pipe. They could have just as easily given us a longer bolt.

Also i cant for the life of me figure out what the screw at the end is for. It doesnt seem to do anything at all. It doesnt attach to anything, doesnt rest against anything, doesnt tighten anything.

[beach_boy]

I believe the reason you have to cut off 3 cm of your tube is because the rails inside your buffer tube are shorter than stock bodies (plastic and metal). this results in the buffer tube moving freely back and forth a coupe of cm's.

Which screw are you talking about?

There's a link on Arnies somewhere showing a great way of coiling your wires. Wrap them around a pen, apply some heat and they'll mold into a phone cord style. It works great.

[Scarecrow]

I did two of them with Gump. We used a dremel and took our time. Its not as big a job as it looks.

Jeroon has one of those batteries in stock I think, next time you're in there you should have a look, they are hard to come by.

[DarkAngel]

Batt is no problem, i bought it with the stock. Ive made the modifications, it seems to work nicely, but there was a few complications. First, Beachboy is correct, the rails in the buffer tube are long enough to make my Buffer tube slide back and forth a bit, Ill be machining a spacer for that. Second problem ive noticed, is that if i solder the wires to the long deans connector wire, the gearbox will be tethered to the receiver pipe due to the deans connectors not fitting though the hole in the stock pipe. This will be fixed by using a different type of connector (small cylindrical ones). Ive also discovered a beautiful chemical called "Gun Blue" im not sure if many airsofters know about this chemical. Its a chemical alternative to Anodizing the surface of your receiver. Painting leaves a residue, as well as the finish does not match properly, but for small scratches and marks, this chemical works flawlessly. Only store i know of that sells this, is Canadian Tire. They sell a small bottle for like 6 bucks in the same isle where they sell hunting products. Im still working on the buttstock (Trying to find these connectors and make a spacer for the tube) When i finish it, ill put up pics and instructions on my modifications