Loss of FPS, After upgrades

[Chromey]

Before upgrades on my G@G M4 I had a 375 fps.

I change
-SHS 7 tooth piston
-Prom piston Head
-Lonex cylinder
-ZCI Full Type 0 cylinder
-Lonex Nozzle
-Lonex 50 hop-up

After changing these Im getting 310fps with 0 hop-up, 120 with full hop-up.

Not sure whats going on.

I have great seals now, Not like before?

Please advise. Anything?

[Wrath144]

Chances are you need a ported cylinder, like the one you may have had. If you are over voluming, your cylinder has more air volume than the ideal for your barrel length, so the bb is out of the barrel before the piston reaches full speed, resulting in a lower FPS. If it's a regular M4 barrel length (14.5"/363mm) then you need a Type 1 ported cylinder.

[Ron-E]

Check and double check your air seal, if you are confident enough that you've perfected it and still having problems then check that t your piston is moving freely, if there is friction it will not return as fast causing low FPS. I've had similar issues with the SHS 7 metal tooth piston, will do a little more research to find the cause

[Chromey]

Wrath, Good suggestion, But its the not ported for a 509mm barrel, Just like the stock cylinder.

Ron-E I think you might be on too something. I found the 7tooth too be a little bitchy for the piston head install.

I might switch back too the systema and check that.

[Chromey]

Noticed the air nozzle gets stuck in the back position after firing.
I opened the gearbox and noticed the tappet plate stuck against the cylinder,
So I reseated it and tested it again, And again The tappet plate flexed and got stuck.

So ill order a new tappet plate, Then retest.

[Ron-E]

Are you putting back the spring for the tappet plate?

Originally Posted by Chromey

Noticed the air nozzle gets stuck in the back position after firing.
I opened the gearbox and noticed the tappet plate stuck against the cylinder,
So I reseated it and tested it again, And again The tappet plate flexed and got stuck.

So ill order a new tappet plate, Then retest.

[Chromey]

Good suggestion, But yes im putting the spring back.

The flex is when the sector gear spins, The tappetplate flexes too much and gets stuck on the piston.

[Bahhwa]

I have this same problem in my King Arms M4
- Yes i attach the spring to both the tappet plate and the spot on the gearbox
- I put a new tappet plate in and it still happens, The nozzle does not spring back

Any guesses what this could be?

Thanks guys!

[Chromey]

Very limited info online about this.

Its getting too be stupid. I put a brand new SHS tappetplate in, Same problem.,

Did you re-shim your gearbox or leave it as is?

I found this Vid on Youtube, The first half is the problem I have, Starting at 36sec. I don't have any misfeeding issues.
AND just too clear it up, I don't have that Ear splitting motor whine either LOL.
Airsoft AEG: Tappet Plate and Air Nozzle Troubleshoot - YouTube

[Rusty Lugnuts]

sand the new tappet plate- it's too wide

[Chromey]

The Stock plate work fine for years, Then stopped working, That is why I tried the SHS, And it does the same.

[Ron-E]

Can you post some pictures of what the gearbox looks like all put together and also how it ends up when you try and cycle it?? That would help a lot

[Stealth]

After assembling the gearbox, you should be able to push the tappet plate back and forth.

[Renegade)]

Originally Posted by Stealth

After assembling the gearbox, you should be able to push the tappet plate back and forth.

Just to add to this, because I know alot of people make the mistake of testing the movement on all their parts without screws or atleast pressure on the two halves of the mechbox. You need to test the movement with screws holding the two halves together and test both the piston movement, and the tappet plate.

As Stealth said, after the mechbox is assembled and screwed together, push the nozzle in and out, if its got any resistance at all, fine grit sand it until it moves in its grooves smoothly, add a little grease.
Do the same thing, only without a spring and gears and such, with the piston, move it back all the way and forward and test for resistance.

[Bahhwa]

Originally Posted by Renegade)

Just to add to this, because I know alot of people make the mistake of testing the movement on all their parts without screws or atleast pressure on the two halves of the mechbox. You need to test the movement with screws holding the two halves together and test both the piston movement, and the tappet plate.

As Stealth said, after the mechbox is assembled and screwed together, push the nozzle in and out, if its got any resistance at all, fine grit sand it until it moves in its grooves smoothly, add a little grease.
Do the same thing, only without a spring and gears and such, with the piston, move it back all the way and forward and test for resistance.

When i was putting the mechbox back together it worked fine, once i shot on semi auto that's when the nozzle got stuck, after a few shots on full auto is would go back to being able to be pressed in and it springs back, then semi again and it gets stuck... so on so forth.

if and when i take it back apart i will take pictures of it , i just saw this thread and figured id post about it too

Thanks guys