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September 30th, 2010, 10:46 | #1 |
Mexifaggot
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Just need clarification before I do this..
After racking the bolt on my AK-105 a little more than I should have.. the metal cracked and a small chunk flew off (it covered the little spring that keeps the bolt assembly in tension and thus allowing the top cover to stay on).
I'm thinking of using a metal cement to keep the metal piece in place for good. Has anyone ever used this method? I figured it would be stronger than super-glue but am afraid it may damage the metal even further. I don't have an actual picture of the damage quite yet.. but here's a PS image of where exactly this is happening: [/URL]
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Guardians of Asgaard - KF25 - Primaries: LCT AK74MN w/SKTBR, VFC M4 SOPMOD Block 2 Secondary: Latino heat, TM Glock 17 |
September 30th, 2010, 10:52 | #2 |
I don't see how metal cement would damage the metal. Just take the AK apart and do it separately from the gear box. Last thing you need is a bit of that shit dripping into the compression area or gears..... or gluing the mechbox to the inside of the gun lol.
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September 30th, 2010, 11:24 | #3 |
remember jbweld is your friend don't push him away just embrace him
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September 30th, 2010, 14:19 | #4 |
make sure you prep the area very well before using the glue. You want a rough surface for the glue to adhere.
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November 2nd, 2010, 20:25 | #5 |
Mexifaggot
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Sorry about reviving this thread.. but I'm at my wit's end.
I have tried using metal cement AND JBWeld with no real success... this piece always seems to find some way of breaking. I've run out of solutions to fix this piece and securely keep it in place. The crack is such a small area that the glues dont have all that much area to bond to. Can anyone suggest anything else I may be able to try to fix this?
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Guardians of Asgaard - KF25 - Primaries: LCT AK74MN w/SKTBR, VFC M4 SOPMOD Block 2 Secondary: Latino heat, TM Glock 17 |
November 2nd, 2010, 20:37 | #6 | |
Quote:
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November 2nd, 2010, 20:45 | #7 |
maybe try welding it. or if it's mild steel, you can try solder. use a torch and apply the solder when the metal is hot. worth a shot
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Please email me as I'm not on ASC too often. Custom Build | Upgrades | Repairs | Maintenance Contact: ghostgunwork@gmail.com / Private Message |
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November 2nd, 2010, 21:12 | #8 |
well first things first here.... stop drill that crack.. so that it doesn't spread anymore..
you find the end of the crack and right at the point of seperation (where it stops being a crack and becomes normal undamaged surface, you use a drill bit.. depending on the width of the crack it could be anywhere from 1/32 - 1/8) once you have stop drilled this crack then you can proceed to use jbweld to fix it.. interms of area prep, you need to remove all paint in that area, with a light sandpaper 120 - 220 grit once you see bare metal, lightly scuff the bare metal with the 220 grit, this will promote adheasion of the jbweld.. then prep the crack by lightly scuffing the inside of it as well... you want the inside of that crack to not be ridiged or have sharp spots at all.. cause this is cause another crack to form. Once you ahve done all that, use some rubbing alcohol to wipe away any debris, filings, or dust from the area.. let dry 5 minutes.. than you're ready to go to town with the jbweld.. I would sugest using aluminumtape on the inside of the gun as a "backing" to prevent any from getting into areas you want to keep clean.. plus this will give you a flat finish on the inside of the gun so that it's once less side you ahve to sand later.. Apply Jbweld.. the turn out on the job will depend heavily on the prep work. I know this is all crunched into one paragraph, may have been easier if I posted step by step.. but I'm sure you get the point.. ask any questions if you have any... plus posting a picture of the damage close up, on the inside and out will really help me at least to give better advice.. REMEMBER, fully disassemble your gun and work on only the damaged peice.. keep the others in an area away from where you're working.. you'll thank me for that someday.. |
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