TM hi-capa 5.1 : hammer unlocks only after 4-5 pulls of the trigger

[Slono]

Welcome to the world of GBBs...

+1 to the above.

[MadMax]

It feels like I am on safety all the time when I try to fire the gun. Plus when I pull the trigger without the beaver tail being pressed the trigger stays back. When I press the beaver tail again it clicks back into position.

Now the gun does not fire at all even after multiple pulls of the trigger.

It sounds like your grip may be misaligned on the frame. Perhaps the grip is sitting a little low so the tang on the beavertail safety is scrubbing the top of the trigger loop instead of engaging squarely on the rear of the trigger loop. Is the tang on your beavertail severely worn?

With the beavertail off you can see if the parts are moving around properly. Check to see that the disconnector (doohicky on the right) is lifting up under the sear (middle doohickey which engages the hammer) when you release the trigger. It is possible to shift the grip slightly rearwards when reassembling it so the trigger loop doesn't move forward far enough to allow the disconnector to pop up between the sear and the trigger loop to reconnect the trigger stack.

[CJay]

i had this exact problem after installing a brand new aluminum trigger bud - bottom line was the trigger and stirrup were about a tenth of a mm out of alignment - ended up just putting the old stirrup and trigger back in.

easy way to tell if thats the issue is:

if you manually cock the hammer without drawing the slide it will fire no issue:
if u draw the slide it will take a few pulls to release the hammer.

the problem is the release nub on the silver sear binding and I even tried smoothing it - eventually worked out that the only fix was a lightly shorter stirrup - u could try bending it but i can pretty much guarantee u it won't work without a new one.

now heres the xplanation (with bad teminology i know):

when the hammer is cocked manually the sear nub is always allowed to be left in its default position which means it doesn't get jammed down. when u draw the slide the nub is pressed down and jams. the reason for the jam is that a slightly longer stirrup holds the silver wedge too far back holding the lever at too sharp an angle in comparison to the wall it sits longitudinally against - even a tenth of a mm will put it out of alignment - basically u end up with a rather abrasive edge in contact with another abrasive edge that's taking a fair old amount of friction. by moving the stirrup forward ur essentially realigning the angle of the silver wedge so that the front side (long flat part) sits evenly along the groove in the frame that it's meant to sit against - if i could draw I'd show u exactly whats oing on but suffice to say u don't wanna go there lol.

the first time i tried to rebend the stirrup it stopped working all together so don't worry too much about that lol