Revolver Cycling weakness

Jimski · February 20th, 2008, 15:12

Hello all.

I'm experiencing some cylinder-cycling problem on my 357:
the pistol is mint condition, O rings are brand new and it's oiled everywhere.

on some shots, the cylinder doesn't cycle completely and ends up halfway between 2 slots.
Gas goes poofff, BB doesn't go anywhere and cycling is messed up.
This happens only using double-action, usually the third or fourth shot in the cylinder.
this double action feels a bit weak.

Simple action is perfect, but I jammed it once, again for some weird cycling reason.

Any revolver doctor here?

thanks!

Danke · February 20th, 2008, 15:47

It's all mechanical on the revolvers I've handled. Check the teeth on the cylinder and the stop. The mechanism inside the frame could be causing this but I don't know if you want to dig into that.

Jimski · February 20th, 2008, 16:31

Quote:

I don't know if you want to dig into that

I totally do.
teeth are ok, but what if the pressuring part on those teeth don't pressure hard enough?

I'm probably going to tighten the spring that links trigger and cylinder rotator.
anyone to stop me?

Danke · February 20th, 2008, 16:44

There's a nice shot of a typical real steel and I'm sure if someone searches there will be Gas powered cutaways too. It sounds like a pawl or ratchet is damaged and wear could be visible, or it could be minor and you'd need an undamaged item to compare to so you can notice the fault.

http://science.howstuffworks.com/revolver2.htm

Jimski · February 20th, 2008, 16:49

oooh nice, danke Danke.

Quote:

Another pawl lodges in a small depression on the cylinder. This stops the cylinder in a particular position so it is perfectly lined up with the barrel.

this is the problem.
apparently the pawl doesn't do its job properly.

Jimski · February 23rd, 2008, 12:26

ok, I found the problem for real.
It's the fact that two of the 6 fake bullets/real chambers are not working properly:
these parts are supposed to be pushed in the cylinder at firing time, to ensure proper air-seal;The two faulty chambers are just a little harder to push in.
The cylinder system is not strong enough, and jams halfway.

Weirdly, the parts are exactly the same and don't seem to have any defect.

I'm gonna try sand-papering them just a tad, on the tip,to see if the 'push' gets easier.
or pre-compress the spring a little bit? I really don't know.

Hope this will eventually help some revolver-guy.

Jim

Danke · February 24th, 2008, 02:36

Can you swap various parts around? Cartridges in cylinders or insides of cartridges? Sometimes you can get tolerances conflicting, let me see if I can explain.

The limit when they make the parts is +/-.005 for discusions sake. If you mix two parts that are the + or - side you can exceed the allowed limit.

It's not something you can tell by eye, you need something like a go/no go gauge to find the problems.

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February 20th, 2008, 15:12	#1
Jimski Trader rating Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Montreal	Revolver Cycling weakness Hello all. I'm experiencing some cylinder-cycling problem on my 357: the pistol is mint condition, O rings are brand new and it's oiled everywhere. on some shots, the cylinder doesn't cycle completely and ends up halfway between 2 slots. Gas goes poofff, BB doesn't go anywhere and cycling is messed up. This happens only using double-action, usually the third or fourth shot in the cylinder. this double action feels a bit weak. Simple action is perfect, but I jammed it once, again for some weird cycling reason. Any revolver doctor here? thanks! __________________

February 23rd, 2008, 12:26	#6
Jimski Trader rating Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Montreal	ok, I found the problem for real. It's the fact that two of the 6 fake bullets/real chambers are not working properly: these parts are supposed to be pushed in the cylinder at firing time, to ensure proper air-seal;The two faulty chambers are just a little harder to push in. The cylinder system is not strong enough, and jams halfway. Weirdly, the parts are exactly the same and don't seem to have any defect. I'm gonna try sand-papering them just a tad, on the tip,to see if the 'push' gets easier. or pre-compress the spring a little bit? I really don't know. Hope this will eventually help some revolver-guy. Jim __________________

February 20th, 2008, 15:47	#2
Danke Prancercise Guru Trader rating Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Danger Zone	It's all mechanical on the revolvers I've handled. Check the teeth on the cylinder and the stop. The mechanism inside the frame could be causing this but I don't know if you want to dig into that.

February 20th, 2008, 16:44	#4
Danke Prancercise Guru Trader rating Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Danger Zone	There's a nice shot of a typical real steel and I'm sure if someone searches there will be Gas powered cutaways too. It sounds like a pawl or ratchet is damaged and wear could be visible, or it could be minor and you'd need an undamaged item to compare to so you can notice the fault. http://science.howstuffworks.com/revolver2.htm

February 24th, 2008, 02:36	#7
Danke Prancercise Guru Trader rating Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Danger Zone	Can you swap various parts around? Cartridges in cylinders or insides of cartridges? Sometimes you can get tolerances conflicting, let me see if I can explain. The limit when they make the parts is +/-.005 for discusions sake. If you mix two parts that are the + or - side you can exceed the allowed limit. It's not something you can tell by eye, you need something like a go/no go gauge to find the problems.

Revolver Cycling weakness

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