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HiCapa front screw (Frame to grip)

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Old October 17th, 2013, 21:02   #1
MultipleParadox
 
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HiCapa front screw (Frame to grip)

Quick question for you guys

What is the importance of the screw going through the frame (middle-front) into the grip at the trigger guard?

I have a frame that this screw hole is totally stripped (don't know what happened, the hole is actually almost as big as the screw's head)

It doesn't seem to impair functioning at all and the frame to grip interface seems relatively solid even without it; I was wondering if it was possible to live without that screw at all

Otherwise, I was thinking of completely patching the hole with JBWeld and drilling a new hole in it so the screw can then tap it

What do you guys think?
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Old October 18th, 2013, 02:15   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MultipleParadox View Post
Quick question for you guys

What is the importance of the screw going through the frame (middle-front) into the grip at the trigger guard?

I have a frame that this screw hole is totally stripped (don't know what happened, the hole is actually almost as big as the screw's head)

It doesn't seem to impair functioning at all and the frame to grip interface seems relatively solid even without it; I was wondering if it was possible to live without that screw at all

Otherwise, I was thinking of completely patching the hole with JBWeld and drilling a new hole in it so the screw can then tap it

What do you guys think?
It's suppose to eliminate the horizontal play between the grip and frame making the grip much more stable during operation. THere's probably more to it than that though.

I don't know if JB Weld will withstand all that drilling you're about to perform. It may just crumble altogether...
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Old October 18th, 2013, 09:13   #3
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Any alternative not involving welding that you think might work?

In the worst case I'll give JBweld a try separately and see how it react to the sight of a drill
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Old October 18th, 2013, 09:49   #4
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6x3/4 wood screw and lots of filing/dremeling the head until it fits flush with the frame. The head is already V shaped, so it should fit with the screw hole in the frame, you might want to file it a bit to change the screw head's V angle to match the one on the frame's screw hole. Note that the screw threads are larger than the original screw, so you will have to enlarge the screw hole in the grip. Since it is a thin plastic area, expect discoloration and some warping of the plastic, but it will work.
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Old October 18th, 2013, 10:28   #5
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You ca buy a metal thread repair and insert that in the hole.
It's basically a metal tube with threads on both sides.

If you can't find some that fit your stock screw, get something similar and replace the screw too.

Theses can be found in woodworking stores (used most of the time as inserts in wood peices for disassembly/assembly).

Alternatively, you can use one of theses drywall ancors and glue it in the hole with epoxy/JBWeld. It will deform and hold enough.


That screw on my Capas was almost always lose. You cannot use threadlocker on plastics, that might be why yours is damaged, it eats plastics.
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Old October 19th, 2013, 16:34   #6
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Thanks for your answers

Just a precision as I wasn't clear enough it seems
The grip is fine, the problem is in the frame itself where the hole of the screw has been enlarged in some way


I'll probably do a test with JBweld (not on the frame first) to see how it react with a drill but driving through it

If this doesn't seem a viable solution I'll give your suggestions a try then I guess
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Old October 19th, 2013, 17:10   #7
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The JB weld hole filling might actually work. I think I've done that before...

As long as you use a screw with coarse enough threads. Don't try to put a screw with fine metal/machine screw threads in there.
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Old October 19th, 2013, 17:55   #8
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I just got a TM capa that has blue Loctite in that same whole, seems to work
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Old October 19th, 2013, 18:09   #9
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I wonder what would happen if you took a piece of abs plastic and created some very small filings and then mixed those in with the JB weld. My thinking is that you can use some abs filings as sort of a fiber reinforced JB weld to give the screw a bit more to bite into when its drilled out.

I got the idea watching a gun smithing video where they use sanding dust mixed in with epoxy to fill gaps.
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Old October 19th, 2013, 19:18   #10
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HiCapa front screw (Frame to grip)

For the time being I found a plastic screw that was just big enough to screw securely in the grip and still have enough contact on the frame to provide good torque

So I just put this and added some "crazy glue" (not exactly this, safe for plastic) to lock it in there

It feels very solid as it is

We'll see what time will tell

Thanks guys

Édit: plastic screw being a brass screw with threads for plastic :P
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Old October 20th, 2013, 00:24   #11
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Maybe time for new Grips? lol.
Buy one of these.
....and your threads will never die again...
...like, for real tho.

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Old October 20th, 2013, 00:52   #12
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Haha yeah but ain't that grip like 6-800$ ? :P
I'd say it makes me drool though but the price tag is prohibitive!

But to reiterate, the grip is fine, only the frame's screw hole was widened

Anyways, for now it's fixed; thanks
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Old October 21st, 2013, 10:06   #13
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If you don't plan on taking it apart any time soon, then do as you did with the super glue or blue/red loctite (I think one type of loctite is "gap filling"). CA is kind of brittle though and may crack/release after a while.

Or rough out the hole as large as you can...fill with JBweld or 5min epoxy and fit it with a screw coated in release agent (i.e. thin even film of grease). You could coat the frame area and rest of the grip where you don't want things sticking as well. Fit the grip to the frame, sink the screw into the epoxy and use some wedges and elastics to jig it up. The rougher the hole the better for a mechanical hold. Worst case is you can't extract the screw without breaking the grip...best case is that you can.
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