Replacing Wires for JG G36C / VA36 Version II

[hua96]

So I opened up my gearbox for the first time so I could downgrade my spring, took me a while but eventually I got the spring in, and the gearbox back together... but I messed up when putting the gearbox back into the motor grip and well, the insulation got all chewed up and the wiring is damaged. (Pretty sure I forced it in too hard)


As you can see, the end of 'A1' is supposed to go into 'B' the red thing I circled, but that's not gonna fit anymore. And the cover on the black wire 'B1' (the end that goes onto the motor) ripped off. You can see the red wire still has it 'B2' So I'm pretty sure I'm gonna need new wiring.

So I looked for replacement wires on the internet, and through google I found this http://www.evike.com/product_info.php?products_id=33593.

Will this work in my gearbox?
Will I need to replace the red thing I circled with the orange thing on evike? (I assume they are the same piece)
Needless to say I'm a total newb when it comes to this and any help/advice is appreciated

ps. anywhere I can get the wiring for cheaper?

[lurkingknight]

good time to switch your battery connector to deans... just get some 18g wire and do it up yourself.. the contacts are still there, you just tore the wire off at the solders... all you need is a soldering iron. Just make sure you match up the color of wire to where the originals were going on the motor.

You can hack it together by soldering and shrink tubing to the existing wire ends on the connector if you don't want to bother with trying to replace the connector, otherwise I'd replace it.. splicing like that might introduce some resistance (though on a circuit this small it might be negligible)

stealth over at airsoftstore.ca has some high quality wire. Any RC hobby shop will have deans or mini tamiya connectors, or you can get the wire from the same hobby shop.

You'll need a male connector end. You might also need some shrink tubing, found at canadian tire, princess auto or any auto parts store.

IF you're completely inept, you'll need to replace the entire trigger box/wiring with a V3 front wired kit.

(edit for freudian slip)

[Stealth]

Yeah we actually sell the wiring, Deans connectors, motor connectors, and the V3 trigger contacts so you could actually re-do the entire system.
http://www.airsoftstore.ca/index.php...ex&cPath=35_13

The wiring we stock is actually 16 gauge wire but the external diameter is like 18 gauge of most other wires so you get more power and it's easier to run the wire.

Just based on what I can see, and confirming what lurkingknight has said, You need:
A1 - get a soldering iron, tin both the fin ("B - the circled thing"), and the A1 wire, and just solder it. You'll need to melt the solder and pick off the bit of wire that's still stuck on the fin first.
B1 - new motor connector (if you want to get real fancy, you can just solder the B1 wire directly to the motor. This will give you more contact area between the wire and motor and more power)

The motor connectors are $2.50 and the V3 trigger contacts - if you NEED to replace it is $4.

Or you can get the whole thing pre-wired for you for $35:
http://www.airsoftparts.ca/store2/in...oducts_id=1642

[hua96]

Thanks guys,very informative! Yeah I'll get the parts and do it on my own, prefer to get my hands dirty

Oh, any specific way I should melt the bit of wire stuck on the fin? I assume to use the soldering iron.

[lurkingknight]

once you melt the solder it will come right off.. just use something to scrape it off when the solder melts.

Make sure you don't cross the wires on the motor/battery sides :P On the trigger it doesn't really matter.

[Stealth]

Oh, forgot to mention that you should probably get some heatshrink on the fins afterwards. Helps to keep the wires from touching and it's another level of retention.