Lowering FPS on a co2 Revolver.

[venture]

I like it. I see now that the tube is actually shorter than the block it replaces. This is where you get less power.

I am going to buy some 10mm tubing and try it. I will post results.

[Xedilian]

Originally Posted by Drakker

This seems overly complicated when all you need really is a screw and a nut to push on the existing metal chamber-like thingy...

I'll have lots of feedback about this technique, if it works, etc, when I get my revolver.
Or i'll just wait for Venture to do it

[Xedilian]

I GOT IT I GOT IT!
I simply wet myself at it's arrival.
Then I took that bitch apart. Following (sortof) the tutorial I posted earlier, I cut the square part in half, stuck the bottom of the other half on the grinder, then under the part with the hole for the spring guide, and BAM! Reduced FPS for all!
Waiting for saturday to confirm FPS change, as I don't have a reliable way to check out my FPS.
But I can tell it's lower than it was. Will post pics.

The drawback I didn't anticipate of this bitch : Unfortunately, I cut the square spring guide holder too much, and If i crank it up, the hammer doesn't click since the guide doesn't have enough space. I'll be remedying to this soon if I can find some of that 10mm tubing.

ALSO : The lodge where you can put the screw / bolt for adjusting seems to be a metric 3. I bought 5's and they were wayyyyy too big.

[daishi]

Im not to sure what to do here.... but I removed everything, and I will pack two washers into the spring... I dont see why replacing the metal part that comes with it with the exact same sized bolt would do anything.

Also...does ANYONE know where I can get replacement parts? The little spring and metal part that keeps the revolvers mag in has gone missing.... any can help me that would be great.

[Xedilian]

Originally Posted by daishi

Im not to sure what to do here.... but I removed everything, and I will pack two washers into the spring... I dont see why replacing the metal part that comes with it with the exact same sized bolt would do anything.

Also...does ANYONE know where I can get replacement parts? The little spring and metal part that keeps the revolvers mag in has gone missing.... any can help me that would be great.

No no, actually, what the tutorial says to do, is remove the spring guide holder (the rectangular metal piece), put a bolt and a screw in the small insert made for it, a flat piece of metal against the flat piece of the screw (to push the cylinder upward, to compress the spring). The cylinder has to have a metal piece drilled so only the guide of the spring can go through. The whole assembly must be shorter than the original one, though.
Therefore, adjustable.

Here's what I did, but I kinda fucked it up. Shouldn't have cut it up that much. I only took the same square part, cut it up, grinded the other half down for the metal plate. It was a lazy fix for my game on saturday, but I need to get an actual bolt to shove into the socket. Maybe metric 3 would do, I know 5 is too big.

What i'm going to do, is find a small cylinder to put between the two plates of metal that are in there (i'll saw off the rest of the half with the hole)
P01-05-12_17-15.jpg

[MrBond]

Oh boy, I wish I could've posted this earlier... there's a really easy way to lower the fps on these revolvers, not requiring any major mod or even opening it up. You see, the hammer hits on a bar that in turn hits on a pin that basicaly pushes the valve that let's the CO2 out. [Check picture]

Now the distance/lenght this pin travels is the amount of gas that will be released. Of course we're talking mm, tenths of mm here. So there are two ways to do this, one I've found on a french forum and one that me and a friend kinda of figured out that's even simpler but sort of the same thing.

The first involves simply putting a thin washer between the bar that the hammer strikes and the pin (the pin being in the washer's hole) so it doesn't go has deep. You have to of course glue the washer in place so it's not perfect.

The other way is to simply bend the same bar slightly in the middle so that it doesn't strike the pin flush wich as you can imagine kinda does the same thing. That bar is made of a pretty good quality and sturdy steel so the beauty of this is that you can keep adjusting it until you get the fps you want or just put it back in it's original shape.

I'm guessing that filling down the pin might also work and may even be more precise. Either way my method worked on two Winguns revolvers so far...

Hope this helps!

[Xedilian]

I'll post results after the chrony on my game Saturday. I'm very optimistic about my modification. Half a turn of the screw, and I seem to gain -/+25 FPS
More on that later.
EDIT : HOOOOLYYYYY SHEEEETTTTTTT
Alright
Looks like it drops after 5 meters at the lowest setting (could be around 150 FPS)
Your modification isn't bad, it's actually neat. The glue you'll be using on the washer will be very, very hard to take off though. And if badly applied, it could obstruct the Co2 flow.

[Drakker]

Originally Posted by MrBond

Oh boy, I wish I could've posted this earlier... there's a really easy way to lower the fps on these revolvers, not requiring any major mod or even opening it up. You see, the hammer hits on a bar that in turn hits on a pin that basicaly pushes the valve that let's the CO2 out. [Check picture]
Now the distance/lenght this pin travels is the amount of gas that will be released. Of course we're talking mm, tenths of mm here. So there are two ways to do this, one I've found on a french forum and one that me and a friend kinda of figured out that's even simpler but sort of the same thing.

The first involves simply putting a thin washer between the bar that the hammer strikes and the pin (the pin being in the washer's hole) so it doesn't go has deep. You have to of course glue the washer in place so it's not perfect.

The other way is to simply bend the same bar slightly in the middle so that it doesn't strike the pin flush wich as you can imagine kinda does the same thing. That bar is made of a pretty good quality and sturdy steel so the beauty of this is that you can keep adjusting it until you get the fps you want or just put it back in it's original shape.

I'm guessing that filling down the pin might also work and may even be more precise. Either way my method worked on two Winguns revolvers so far...

Hope this helps!

This method is simple, but you don't get the advantage of being able to adjust FPS with a screw driver...

[daishi]

Can anyone pop their gun open for me and show me the spring on the trigger system? I opened the damn ting up and the trigger popped out of the housing and now im stuck with a spring that I have no idea how it made the little push arm rotate the mag or how it goes in...its quite frustrating.

[Xedilian]

Originally Posted by daishi

Can anyone pop their gun open for me and show me the spring on the trigger system? I opened the damn ting up and the trigger popped out of the housing and now im stuck with a spring that I have no idea how it made the little push arm rotate the mag or how it goes in...its quite frustrating.

Well your second picture is correct, they go like that. The first little "hook" on your silver piece hooks itself on the "ledge" where it goes upward to move the barrel, that is the only position the trigger can righfully go into the hole made for it, and join with the hammer assembly.
As for that spring, oh lawd, I have no idea. I'll take mine apart again and see
(Damn these revolvers are the simplest mechanisms i've ever seen)

Here's what i mean. Please excuse the really, really, shitty pictures, since my cellphone seems to be too retarded to do close-up pictures.

Figure 1
The spring belongs in a small housing under the trigger, and the circular portion of it goes onto the pin that keeps it in place.
The trigger is backwards in this picture, therefore, the spring goes UNDER the trigger from a normal "just disassembled it" point of view. Long part goes a-long (get it) the trigger assembly. It shines.


P02-05-12_14-01.jpg

Figure 2
There's the correct position of the trigger, just pull that hook up and the rest goes with it.

P02-05-12_14-02.jpg

[daishi]

Yah...that doesnt seem to be how my spring works...its not even as long as yours.

As you can kinda see....my spring is to short and not as long...when i put it in similar to that...the trigger works fine, but t he push arm just sits and does nothing...it doesnt even move....

the silver arm itself has like an upside down mushroom shape with a cut out of it to have something run along there...I guess thats where the spring arm goes (?) but there are no other guides or holes for the spring to go in and it just falls off or slides off not matter what I do...

[Xedilian]

Its almost exactly as mine is. I seriously don't get it.
Although, my bracket @ 90 degrees is a little more bent to the left, while yours tilts towards "inside" the trigger.
Maybe that? Apart from that, it's in the right place I would think.

[daishi]

Alright, got it fixed...hed to bend it around and it seems to be working.

Now Im just back at the beginning with needing a replacement spring and metal slide for the magazine. The one that gets pushed down when you push the fire selector switch to eject. I have no idea where to find replacement parts...and the manufacture website is of no help.

[Xedilian]

Got back with the results from the chronie!
Lowest seems to be at around 200-220 FPS, while the highest is really at 420-440.

The screw is really sensitive fps wise, but once it's in place, you never need to touch it again. Took a good 5-10 minutes at the chrony to reload, test, screw, reload, etc...

If an admin agrees I might even turn these crappy explanations into a tutorial.