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February 14th, 2012, 00:42 | #1 | |
GabeGuitarded
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WE M4 CO2 Magazines Leaking
Hi all,
I've got a bunch of CO2 magazines, almost all of which seep gas out the top when charged. It seems like the valve pin (can't remember the proper term - the pin that the valve knocker/hammer pushes in and releases gas) isn't closing the valve all the way, i.e. not returning to its original position after being depressed. Grenade weight oil hasn't helped the issue. However, I have two or three magazines that don't have this issue, at least one of which has been subjected to more use/abuse than the ones that are leaking. I'm also having problems with the bolt catch engaging the bolt on empty. The only time it catches in time is when the magazine is low on gas or cooled down significantly enough to slow the cycle. Will filing the bolt catch as I've seen in searching around make it engage quick enough? If so I need a bit of guidance on how to get that part out of the receiver. Thanks in advance
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February 15th, 2012, 18:21 | #2 | |
GabeGuitarded
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Anybody?
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February 15th, 2012, 18:48 | #3 |
No clue on filing the bolt catch.
Sounds like you've got some dirt in your knocker valve. If you have a valve key unscrew the knocker valve from the mag and inspect/clean it. I do not know the name for it, but on the knocker valve itself there is a piece of metal (shaped like a c) that holds down a cup containing the spring which closes the valve. If you carefully remove this piece of metal the valve comes apart and you can fully clean and inspect the valve. And when I say careful I mean it! The little C piece can go flying if you're not (good luck finding it if it launches itself across the room), same goes for the metal cup and the spring it holds although it won't fly as far... Learned this the hard way If you don't have a valve key, go get one. They're not too costly and you're going to need it to be able to properly maintain your gas mags. If you have a GBB pistol it will also help you there if you need to work on any of the seals on those types of mags too. After you remove the valve, disassemble it and clean all the surfaces (use q-tips or tightly rolled up paper towel to clean out the hole that the valve stem passes through. Inspect the o-rings for any damage, if they've got any tears or bits of rubber missing you might need to replace them. After you've cleaned the thing thoroughly reassemble it and lube up all the o-rings with grenade oil. Let it soak in for a bit (I used to just let them sit in a shot glass full of oil for a couple hours), shake off some of the excess oil and then install the valve back into the mag again. Make sure to screw it in nice and tight, nothing crazy though. Hope that helps! |
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February 15th, 2012, 21:07 | #4 | |
GabeGuitarded
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Perfect, I see your thread now too, thanks a ton mate.
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February 15th, 2012, 22:37 | #5 | |
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Hope that helps! |
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February 17th, 2012, 19:04 | #6 | ||
GabeGuitarded
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Do you mean the white piece over the black cylinder running inside the bolt? That's the only white piece on mine that I see. If it matters, this is a closed chamber system, so if you are referring to an open chamber bolt there are bound to be some big differences in the mechanism. Update: the bolt stop function works with the slightest bit of pressure on the bottom of the magazine. Even inverting the gun is enough to get the bolt stop up far enough/quick enough. EDIT: My safety also has something up with it, it allows me to select safe even when the hammer is down. This is a gen4 AWSS so i don't think it should be like this, but I'm not sure.
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Last edited by Huron; February 20th, 2012 at 14:53.. |
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