Unfortunately it's going to be the most expensive grenade on the market. I have the disadvantage of higher costs of manufacturing here and my product is quite feature rich. It'll be a bit more expensive than the Deepfire grenade at around $65, but it'll be the most combat effective grenade on the market by a good margin. It even outperforms most pyro grenades in terms of bb distribution and ease of deployment, not to mention safety issues.
I considered making my grenade less feature rich and more economical for outdoor hucking, but I found that outdoor performance was generally poor. The problem I face is that bbs do not penetrate tall grass well. If I made the grenade powerful enough to blast through grass, it'd be too dangerous indoors where there's no ground grass to punch through. With that in mind I moved to making the product perform excellently instead of cheap enough to lose. It was a tough decision, but the safety issue of making a grenade penetrate grass yet not dangerous without grass was impossible to resolve.
It's not really that difficult to imagine. Take your AEG and lay it sideways and blast through dense grass. You won't be able to get much of a shot range with even a 400fps rifle. Imagine making a grenade that blasted 180bbs 400fps into a room at close range. One of my safety requirements was making my grenade dive safe. I had the fun task of repeatedly laying myself onto my own grenades taking half the bb load in the belly (the other half come out in directions not pointing at me). Hurts like a bitch getting 90 pellets in one zone, but no broken skin.
I also face the spectre of a user leaving a charged grenade in a car trunk during the summer. Trunk temperatures can get as high as 75C which cranks propane up to a whopping 500psi! That kind of pressure regime is dangerously high so I include two resettable safety features (one redundancy) to prevent a grenade from discharging at 500psi.
My grenade is going to be easy to maintain. All of the parts are designed to be hard wearing and easy to replace. I even use some easily attainable parts. The most heavily worn oring is the same oring type used in AEG pistons. I haven't worn one out in lifecycle tests yet, but if you manage to damage yours, you can get your grenade working if you have a spare AEG oring. The pull pin (only easily lost bit) can be replaced by a bent piece of hangar wire. The hardened wire pins I'll supply last longer, but you don't have to wait for a replacement pin. You can easily fashion a standby replacement from a hangar while your replacement is in the mail (or even not bother with replacing it with an AI pin). The design is quite robust. While failures are quite infrequent, the few that can occur are easily fixed with "limp along" fixes that are not very frustrating. Nothing worse than having a cool piece of kit out of commission while you wait a week for a spare part.
I worked my ass off designing this thing to be excellent. I've already started pursuing improvements, but my finances are exhausted now. I have to launch before I run out of dough to make my launch. Just like when I launched my V1 adaptor. I worked on it until I had to launch it on my credit card. Can't do that now since it's already maxed...
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Last edited by MadMax; August 22nd, 2007 at 00:27..
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