Quote:
Originally Posted by Lone_Bullet.be
My dear sir, Illusion.
I have a few questions myself, if you don't mind.
I have read though all the pages and thus I know you're not familiar with KJ Works GBB. I myself own a KJW KP06. A TM MEU made CO2 compatible.
2 year old, cleaned thoroughly every time by completely disassembling it, washing it in soapy water ( I use degreaser which you use to wash the dishes ).
Then wipe everything as dry as possible and blow-dry with a hair-dryer to remove last remnants of moisture. I re-oil everything with Tamiya silicone shock oil as per instruction by the KWA 1911 PTP vids online ( they're good ).
Any recommendation to clean a GBB otherwise?
Now, I don't use the GBB very often, as it's my sidearm, but already I see the barrel lugs to hold the inner barrel into the hop chamber wear down quickly. I'm very positive that is because of the CO2 usage. Other wear is noticeable on the following parts: The threads of the outerbarrel/hopchamber. The barrel lugs on the hopchamber. Slide as a whole ( slide was quite wobbly at the beginning ). Ambi safety ( Getting hard to engage and lots of wobble on the right safetylever ). Sears.
I'm seriously thinking of rebuilding it as a whole with quality parts.
Now, I'm looking at reliability. As a sidearm it needs to work when I need it.
I figure, since you don't own the gun, you can't really tell me what wrong. But given the faults, what does your instinct tell you to replace, look at?
Can you contact me by PM or Email for the build? thank you. |
The first problem I noticed, is that you're using dish soap. It's not ideal, as many will leave a residue. Palmolive, for example leaves palm oil residue. Others, leave a lotion behind to keep your hands soft when you wash a lot of dishes. If you really want to clean, use a citrus based degreaser.
Second, you are using silicone oil for "oiling". I'm not sure what you think you'll achieve by doing that, but you're not going to get much lubrication from it. Silicone oil is actually one of the worst lubricants you can use in terms of actually reducing friction between metal-on-metal components... and this is besides the fact that it's messy as hell. It creeps and runs everywhere. No wonder you feel the need to always completely disassemble your gun and degrease it. At best, silicone oil is used to keep o-rings and rubbers moist. That's all. If you want actual lubricating power - ESPECIALLY with metal components, use a quality grease. Not only does grease not creep and run like silicone oil, but when used sparingly, it won't sling or fling, and won't attract as much dirt and grime as oil running all over the gun.
Properly cleaned and lubricated with a quality grease, you shouldn't have to open your gun at all for at least 10,000 rounds.
As for the lugs in your hop up chamber wearing down - I have no idea what that cause is, unless there is something striking/pulling/rubbing your inner barrel to cause it to resist against the hop up chamber. I've only seen this happen with a Marui pistol once, and the inner barrel was being struck by the slide due to a compensator adaptor setup. I can't even imagine this happening under normal conditions with CO2, unless a lip in the outer barrel is catching the muzzle of the inner barrel.
As for wear on the threads of the outer barrel/hop up chamber... sorry, no idea what you're referring to. Marui's don't have any threading between these two parts.
As for wear to the slide and sear (singular - there is only ONE sear in the gun): I would bet that the majority of your wear is simply because you're trying to use silicone oil as "lubricant" for metal-on-metal contact. In essence, you're not lubricating anything at all... which is why it's wearing so hard. You might as well be using water to lubricate it. It'll be cheaper and you'll get the same result. :P