Lipo inside of keymod...
 

I wanted to add a keymod on my rifle and wanted to keep it front wired. I've read many conflicting thoughts on keeping a battery constantly plugged in so I decided to do a little modification. I looked around the net and found no info on running a switch to the battery to cut power while leaving the battery connected at all times, but I decided to give it a try. I found it to work great!

I put a small on/off switch on the positive wire between the battery and mosfet. I then mounted the switch on the bottom outside of the keymod for fast switching. Sliding the keymod over the barrel was snug but everything looks great and I can still pull out the the charging cable through any grove on the keymod. I have some rubber rail cover/grips on order which will completely hide the battery and wires.

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psic3scyyj.jpg

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...psf6ky6cqo.jpg

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps7leusr30.jpg

Soooooo why not rear wire it?

Because he wanted to keep it front wired silly. :)

Playing a long game and having to change batteries will certainly be an interesting experience.

If you're going to be running a big vertical grip anyways, why not get a PTS enhanced polymer foregrip? It's made to fit a stick lipo in it, and you'll always have access to your battery with a hatch on the bottom of it. It's also a really nice foregrip on its own.

No quick swaps in the field, that's for damn sure.

Man I've been outta the game for awhile. I didn't even know that grip option was available. Thanksssss.

Might have to be careful with which battery you choose. I think only a 1000mAh battery would fit the PTS Vertical

honestly I like this, good mod.
Yes battery life might be an issue, but running a LiPo sure makes this make sense versus the old days of NiCad/MH. I've run full 10 hour game days on a single LiPo in my P90 and put a shit ton of rounds through it and still had power left at the end of the day.

Did you happen to take any progress photos as you went?

srsly though, why not just rear wire it?
7.4v 1400mah will fit in that buffer tube, or an 11.1 1200, maybe even 11.1 1400. And you can swap batteries easily. And most importantly, the gun is way easier to take apart if you ever need to fix or upgrade anything.
I could understand if you were going to a skeleton stock or something that can't take a battery.

The innovation is neat, but ultimately I have to ask; why would someone want to do this when they still have a buffer tube?

CHAZ... I NEED a BATTERY.... And Allen Keys..... And cover.... AND a level to reset my rets.....


REAR WIRE. If its something you cant handly get a local shop or Tech from ASC to do for you.

maybe he did not want to crack the gearbox to rewire it. virgin box working great, I would not want to open it either lol

I didn't take any pics along the way, sorry...

I'm running an 11.1 1100mah triple battery with the nanohard MOSFET. This gun is my backyard plinker so I like having the on-demand toggle switch for super fast on/off. I wanted to keep the wiring up front because a) I wasn't sure if I liked the keymod (now love it!) and wanted the option of switching back to the stock hand guard and b) I tried to stuff the battery and MOSFET in the buffer tube but it was realllllll tight and the stock couldn't be adjusted smoothly or to the #1 position.

I've opened the gearbox about 25 times in the 9 years i've owned this thing, so the rear-wire option is not an issue if I go that route in the future.