Airsoft Store Canada Presents - How To Install an R-Hop
 

Okay so finally, here it is. Probably not the best video I've made but it should answer a LOT of questions for a LOT of people.

Comes with 50% more accuracy and consistency tips.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SKlKmCgxmlE

A perfectly-installed R-hop from a Z-kit and what it should look like.
Perfectly-installed R-hop - YouTube

Any questions, post below.

http://www.airsoftstore.ca/images/HS5ZKit.jpg

http://www.airsoftstore.ca/images/photo.JPG

THIS. couldn't have explained it any better. +9001 =D

first installs (and the old method) tend to look like Russian Torpedo Rocket ! - YouTube

so first timers: don't sweat it.

Oh no, the secret is officially out! :eek: Anyways, good guide on explaining the basics of a R-hop installation.

Awesome man!

Question now though, what is the other part of the hop kit tool for? The triangle thinger?

Nice I can even do it now. :) I been using the O rings on the barrel for year's now.

The triangle thinger, let me guess it's to gage the R-patch is flush with the out side of the barrel.

Been doing that. I can still never get the outside of the r-hop to sand down flush with the barrel entirely no matter how much I sand (of course not below the outside of inner barrel). This causes the r-hop to push down sometimes.

Also I find my R-hop isn't consistently applying spin.. sometimes I have to shoot a few BBs (it would shoot like under hopped) before it is giving me a nominal trajectory.

Anyone have an idea why? Let me know if you need specs.

you can use a razor blade (super thin single-edges or a halved double-edge shaving blade is perfect) to cut the outside of the patch. doesn't come out as clean, but is easier...also easier to screw up too. ymmv. the sanding method definitely takes a little patience.

when you're adjusting your hop up (same goes for 99% of all hop up units on the market, r-hop'd or not) make sure to adjust up (increase hop) slightly after decreasing the hop setting to have the unit apply pressure properly.

The shelf? It's basically in case you need to rework the R-hop patch channel in any way. It also makes it easier to hold if you're doing some sanding. I glued some sandpaper to the inside surface to hold patches better but for the most part I haven't really needed to use it.

Like I said in the video, your first install isn't going to be amazing, but if you're lifting .25g+ then a LITTLE bit of protrusion/intrusion isn't going to break the deal.
What hop nub are you using?

Also, are you testing out with a completely full mag? I ask because sometimes your tappet plate spring isn't strong enough and upward pressure of BBs pushes the nozzle out of alignment. If so, test again with a half-loaded mag.

Its not amazing I agree. My inner radius of the r-hop is fine, its the the outsideof the patch. Its always close, but not flush, causing some over hop sometimes. I was hopping 0.3g using a MAG midcap for M4.

I was using a stock G&P tappet plate spring, so hopefully its not that. If so, I guess I should just cut the spring a coil to make it stronger. Is there a place in Toronto to get springs?

I was using a regular round nub as I was still trying out the R-hop.

use some silicone oil on the sand paper and give it the ole shoe polish style sanding while it's glued on the barrel... if you have a 6mm cylinder insert it into the barrel to keep the shape of the patch so it doesn't collapse while you apply sanding pressure, just be careful you don't scratch the inside of the barrel.

I'm going to jump in and say that the quality, distance and consistency of your groupings with the R-hop system is DIRECTLY attributed to how uniform and consistent the inner r-hop channel is. That's why I highly recommend not touching it at all and to run a Prometheus Flat-hop tensioner for maximum contact area of that patch.

Does the r-hop work with 2 piece hop up units? I dont see why it wouldn't, just wondering if there's something I should watch for with a 2 piece...

Doesn't matter whether it's 1-peice or 2piece. Although 2-piece systems I have found to be more "lossy"

So I finally got it installed. I only bought 2000 grit at first and that was imposssible. I kept applying oil and made my patch swell a lot. Had to recut it to fit, bought some 400 grit sandpaper and now it's finally installed. There is no barrel intrusion on inside or outside of barrel and the hop up is engaging normally.

Going to have to go to my old mans place to do tests, but it looks pretty good. Wish they gave a little bigger patch for how much they cost and for people who screw up like me. :D

! On mobile; sorry for any spelling mistakes or autocorrects!

it shouldn't be swelling if you're using the right silicone oil.

So in your video you suggested crazy glue-ing the patch to the barrel window. In the barrel I tried it on (madbull 6.03) , what seemed to be the closest fitting patch still raised up slightly when I inserted the round rod shown in the video, thus preventing me from glue-ing both edges. Like the old video showed, I used some silicone to fill in that space and then sanded the top, but I was concerned that the patch may have been lop sided off to one side or the other when I silicone it in place, so when I didn't have good results I got discouraged after my second failed attempt... Any suggestions?
I should note that I did also try sanding the inner channel as per the traditional way, and upon disassembly I noted that the flat hop I was trying was to big for the hop up window. So many variables here. This would also be much easier if I didn't live in the city, and could just go out in my back yard and test it any time I wanted...

Just ordered mine, will see how this goes when i tgets here:/

So far, have shaved and sanded the bucking, Was worried about tearing it but was able to do it. Over cut the r-hop so just sanded it down to fit. Two pin head drops of super glue to hold it back in place. Just waiting for that to dry and I'm done. Hopefully it turns out good. Still worried on it tho. When the barrel goes back into the hop up.

The r-hop goes on the top right?

You're going to want to sand down the top of the r-hop patch so that it's flush with the outside of the barrel before sleeving your bucking on.

Just waiting for the glue to dry for that one. Been watching the video step by step for each part. Very hand video way better then others I've seen on he subject! Have giving the link to alot of people who have been getting ready to do r-hop installs.

I know this is a older post, but I was wondering what patch people used in Prommy barrels. I tried the medium barrel, and its seem to fit the best, but still overhopped with .25g bbs

you have to be extremely lucky to have a barrel that you just put the patch in and go.. so far I've not found a barrel that any patch fits perfectly in terms of barrel intrusion. Also after sanding it to fit with 0 intrusion and being able to drop a bb down the barrel, once installed that sucker overhops everything to the moon, so I've had to sand the inner radius on every install I've done so far. This is where patience and the futzing come in.. you need to sand, assemble, test... pull it apart and rinse and repeat till its' right.

YMMV. I've used both the middle and deepest patches for Prommy.

Oddly I've been really darn lucky without having to sand the inner channel on any Prommy barrels.

If you're over hopping you need to make sure the outer curvature is sanded flush and your hop sleeve is also flat.

yup to both. still overhopped in the v2 I installed prior to nightfall... the patch was flat with the outer and no protrusion inside, but when installed into the hopup, the hop was always on... I aggressively went at the inner surface using the installation tool and some sand paper, we finally got acceptable results. We were using a prommy bridge nub which to me appeared to fit very tightly into the window, maybe too tightly soo maybe it was jamming in it and not releasing properly when adjusting the wheel.

I did another v3 the night before we left and it's shooting beautifully, though I sanded the fuck out of it both surfaces to make sure there was good clearance. This one was set to use a standard cylindrical nub.

Just so everybody is clear and has a good idea of what a perfect R-hop install using a Z-kit looks like, I threw this up really quickly right after finishing an install for a client.

Perfectly-installed R-hop - YouTube

Hope it helps everyone.


If you have ham hands, email us at sales@airsoftstore.ca to inquire about our R-hop install service. Now that the summer season is over, we have a bit more free time to do the smaller jobs.

Alright, I'm bumping this up because we've literally sold HUNDREDS of Z-Kits but have yet to see any "in the wild".

So what gives guys? Are people having difficulty installing it? Does your install look too mangled to show and tell? We're here to help.

I'll start - this is a #2 patch in the bonding stage on a Prometheus barrel with the new Installation Aid (V6)
https://scontent-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hpho...85925952_n.jpg


On another note, we've been asked whether or not the R-hop is maintenance-free. And the answer is - yes, for the most part. I have over 50,000 rounds in one of my R-hop barrels (through 2 seasons) without the need to clean the patch.

But if you do wish to clean it, do NOT use any solvents to clean the patch, a simple dry Q-tip will suffice to remove any BB residue from the rubber surface. A photographer's lens blower will finish up the job. Compressed air (duster gas) is pretty dry and should be avoided.

Also, when cleaning R-hopped barrels, make sure that the hop-up is turned completely off so that you do not shift the patch around in case insufficient adhesive was used to secure the patch (which should be rectified anyway).

What bonding agent do you use?

I've been partial to Loctite brand CA glue lately, but in the past I basically just bought the first thing I saw at the store. The actual adhesive used really doesn't matter, the key is the consistency of the adhesive at the time of application and the actual method of application.

I tried crazy glue with no luck whatsoever. It didn't even bond to the Promy barrel window. Also, the edges of the patch didnt sit well on the edges of the window, no matter which of the 3 patches I tried. Do they need trimming? If so, how?

I use a glue from a purple metal tube it's a crazy glue branded one I think got it from canadian tire. it's pretty thick and goopy.

I found that any CA glue works just fine for R-hops. Personally, I apply it to the edges of the patch when its actually sitting in the barrel

LOL remember me the guy who paid you 100$ for the r hop install that I ended up having to do myself well here's exactly why shown in quotes.... hahahaha

Jonathan, it's unfortunate that you had a bad experience with our complete R-hop install. Despite the fact that John meticulously tested the barrel at distance before shipping and the lack of evidence provided to us to substantiate this "botched" install, we have already issued you a complete refund of all services rendered some time ago. Let us know how else we may be of assistance. As we have said in the past, we stand by our work.

In any case, your particular case has prompted us to record every installation we perform, and as such, John finished another R-hop installation this past weekend.
I'll let the video speak for itself.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=czYEyHZ3Ijk

Again, you do not need to rework the inner channel - that's the whole point of the Z-kit. If users insist on reworking the channel, then the lower cost standard IR-hop (non-z-kit) would be applicable.